Off before dawn – AGAIN!

We were torn from the warm embrace of our comfy bed at 5:00 AM – AGAIN! Patrick, our guide and driver from JT Safaris (http://www.tripadvisor.ca/ShowUserReviews-g317068-d318009-r22534296-Julius_Safaris_Day_Trips-Ukunda_Coast_Province.html), picked us up at the hotel well before dawn. When everything else is on African-time here, how come morning departures aren’t?

The drive to Amboseli National Park (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amboseli_National_Park) was uneventful and took only four hours. Blissfully short by our now skewed standards – didn’t even get numb-bum.

Amboseli National Park, Kenya.

Because we arrived early in the day, Patrick took us on a late morning game drive before heading into the lodge. We are still waiting for toe-shoes and tutus before getting excited. The day was starting to heat up, and the animals were disappearing into any shady spot they could find, so we headed for the lodge.

Inner gate into Amboseli Serena Lodge.

Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge

The Amboseli Serena Lodge (http://www.serenahotels.com/serenaamboseli/default-en.html) is located within the national park. It is a lush, green oasis of civility in the dusty African savanna. On arrival, we were greeted in the parking lot with cool damp cloths and a glass of orange juice. This definitely ain’t overlanding.

Our room is luxury hotel meets African game lodge. The walls are painted with murals of wildlife and tribal themes, the decor utilizes Maasai beading, carvings, and spears. Dark African woods are used for the desk and beside tables. The bed is elegant with down pillows and a real duvet. The whole bed is surrounded by a track-mounted mosquito net. The room is completed by a small patio with chairs and table, and has a view of the exquisite gardens. The only downside is that you must remember to close the screen door because the resident vervet monkeys will raid the room given any opportunity.

Our room.

View of patio and garden from room.

View from our assigned table in the semi-private dining room.

View from lounge.

After lunch and a siesta, Patrick took us on a late afternoon game drive. Just before sunset, we spotted Kilimanjaro’s peaks, and stopped to shoot photographs. That is twice we have been able to see Kili… How ’bout that, Brett?

Kili in the late afternoon.

Kili at dusk.

There are about 800 elephants living in the park; we saw most of them today. We ran across a herd of elephants crossing the road with several very young calves and one very large, very old bull who is missing a tusk – hence our nickname for him: One-Tusk.  Patrick estimated that he is close to 70 years old and nearing the natural end of his life. Elephants go through three full sets of teeth during their lives. When the last set falls out, the elephant can no longer eat and wanders away to die. Patrick explained that losing a tusk is an outward sign of extreme old age.

Amboseli Elephants.

Nice mud-masque.

Don’t worry, the little guy’s just asleep. When they’re tired, they just lay down and sleep.

Now, he’s awake.

Hanging onto mommy.

Kinda wrinkly, for a little guy.

Little guy running.

Snack-time.

Just like mom.

One-Tusk B&W.

We also saw the usual assortment of savannah animals, as well as our first cheetah and her two cubs. Unfortunately, the cheetah wasn’t very cooperative. She was lounging in tall grass at quite a distance from the truck, making it difficult to get good photos. We watched them for almost an hour and they barely moved.

Cheetah and cubs.

Grey-Crowned Cranes and female Ostriches.

Gnus (Wildebeest).

Grazing Zebra.

Male Ostrich.

Spotted Hyaena.

Zebra dust-bath.

Upset about something.

Zebra foal.

We were returning to the lodge in the fading late when we came upon One-Tusk standing at the edge of the road. Patrick was able to stop the truck mere feet away from him. Roger and I started snapping off photos furiously while Patrick had the truck in gear and his foot on the accelerator ready to flee. One-Tusk kept an eye on us while munching grass. Suddenly, and without any warning, he charged just as Patrick popped the clutch and got us out of the way. One-Tusk is older than dirt, most likely blind, and definitely incontinent of urine… all of which is completely irrelevant when 5 1/2 tons is charging at you from six feet away. Another one for the bucket list – being charged at close range by a bull elephant.

Please excuse the blurry photograph. It is difficult to hold the camera and focus when you are peeing your pants….

One-Tusk before charge.

Holy Crap!!!!

So long, One-Tusk.

Safari vehicle are required to return to the lodges before 6:30 PM or risk being fined by the Kenyan Wildlife Service (Park Rangers). So, as the sun sets, you will find everyone racing for home.

Safari vehicles racing for home.

The lounge’s outdoor patio looks out over the marsh land, and is illuminated by flood lights, allowing guests to view animals wandering nearby.

Area in front of patio lit with flood lamps.

Eron typing blog entries on patio.

Later in the evening Roger went to the outdoor patio to enjoy his after-dinner cigar. A fellow cigar enthusiast from New York, Jimmy, joined Roger and they spent an hour smoking and swapping lies about their African adventures. You can always find a friend in a fellow cigar aficionado.