We had made arrangements with Galen to have, “Lek”, (his adoptive son) be our guide on a tour into the rural north of Thailand; through much of the old “Golden Triangle”. Lek is ethnically a member of the Akha Hill-Tribe and agreed to take us into the Hill-Tribe villages of Ban Doi Chaang and Ban Doi Wawee in the extreme northwest corner of the country. Ban Doi Chaang was where Lek was born and he was proud to have us visit “his” Ban (village).

While waiting for Lek, we noticed a local 24/7 outdoor coin-operated laundromat. Amazingly, at least to our jaded urban eyes, local Thais would ride up (on their scooters or “step-through” motorcycles), dump their laundry into a washer, throw some coins into the machine, and simply ride off… no attendant in sight and, apparently, no fear of theft.

24/7 outdoor coin-operated laundromat.

We were just finishing our morning i-coffees when Lek pulled up. So, off we went on the next phase of our adventure.

Lek; guide and talented abstract painter.

One of the first points of interest was, Thaweesin Hot Springs (http://www.chiangmai-chiangrai.com/only-geyser_wiang-pa-pao_chiangrai.html).

Thaweesin Hot springs.

Which, of course, means a foot-soak in the 105 degree Fahrenheit water.

Then there was this delivery truck, likely trying out for a spot in the next Ikea commercial…

Ikea furniture delivery?

Next up on the “weird-things-I-saw-on-the-way-to-Chiang Rai” list was the, Cabbages & Condoms Resort and Restaurant (http://www.pda.or.th/chiangrai/cc.htm).

Cabbages and Condoms Restaurant, Chiang Rai.

And of course, you can’t have real rural driving without at least one dairy cattle rush hour…

Dairy cattle rush hour.

Along the way, we saw many tiny “villages”; some not much more than a couple of houses perched precariously on the side of the ever-steeper hills. According to Lek, in these immediate hills the villages are inhabited by Akha, Lisu, Mong, and ethnic Chinese.

Hill Tribe village.

Lek then pointed out, “Mae Soy Lake”; one of his favourite fishing holes.

Lek’s favourite fishing hole: Mae Soy Lake.

We continued onto the Doi Chaang coffee growing region where we found young coffee plants growing under shading at the sides of the road.

Young coffee plants.

Eventually arriving at the Doi Chaang Coffee Factory which Lek proudly pointed out, exports it’s product all over the world. Apparently he was right, as we saw signs on the side of the factory listing some of their international customers – two of which are even located in the Metro Vancouver, BC, Canada area northeast of where we live.

Doi Chaang Coffee House adjacent to the factory.

Canadian customers – Global BC and Canterbury Coffee.

Then, it was one final stop before arriving at Lek’s village. We stopped at a nearby Akha market so that Lek could purchase some gifts for his family.

Akha market.

Meat vendor’s table. Note the plastic-bag fans over the meat to swish away the insects.

Hard-roasted eggs on a stick.

Bag o’ chicken. A laying hen going off to her new home.

Ban Doi Chaang. Unfortunately, there was a funeral taking place in the village. So, we only had the opportunity to be introduced to a few of Lek’s family; we met his mother, his eldest daughter, and his mother-in-law.

Lek in front of his mother-in-law’s house.

Lek’s mother-in-law.

His mother-in-law showed us the family mushroom growing operation.

Mushroom farming – Akha-style.

Close-up of the mushrooms.

Next, we drove through an area given over to tea farming.

Tea farm.

Terraced tea farming.

To finish the day’s travelling, we drove through the “neighbouring” town of Ban Doi Wawee; another area famous for it’s coffee growing. This was on our way to our accommodations for the night, the Lau Lee Hill Resort (http://www.choowap.com/hotel/laulee-hill-resort). This odd “resort” is best described as a Monty Pythonesque Chinese ode to Fawlty Towers. Walking into it gave me immediate flashbacks to my 1981 trip through The Peoples Republic of China. To give them due credit; the staff were quite friendly, the food was of decent quality, and the views of the valley were spectacular. But, for 1200 Baht (approximately $36 USD) per night; there was no air conditioning, there were only single beds available, the room came complete with Carpenter Ants, we never did get the hot water heater to work, the room had multiple cobwebs, the towels were musty and threadbare, and the beds and pillows could only be charitably described as “brick-like” in their firmness.

Lau Lee Hill Resort.

China 1981 flashback.

Balcony view from our room.

Deserted dining room at dinner – we were the only guests.

Everything in the room was available for purchase?

Inscrutable LPG-fired water heater with “firepower” control?!?! Possibly Chinese PLA-issue?

The one real saving grace for this place was that, apparently it is located in the land that the W.H.O. (World Health Organization) can’t find. When the dining staff saw my cigar on the table, they immediately brought an ashtray for me… and this was even before dinner was ordered. But being the sensitive, caring, new-age cigar aficionado that I am; I waited until after dinner before lighting up. Lighting up an after-dinner cigar while actually seated at the dinner table… now, this was the good-kind of flashback. All I can say to the W.H.O., their legions of anti-tobacco-zealot petty-bureaucrats, and their strong-arm coercion tactics of with-holding health-aid monies to developing nations (to further their anti-tobacco agenda) is… never mind, rant over; I enjoyed my cigar very much and there simply ain’t nothing that the W.H.O. can do to take that memory away from me.

After-dinner cigar at the dinner table.