East to Hedon

Culi’s Restaurant and Bar – Bucerias, Nayarit, Mexico

Posted on April 27, 2017 by East to Hedon

Yesterday evening, Eron I enjoyed one of the best dining experiences we have had; not just in Mexico, but anywhere. For several years, there has been a hidden gem on the Bucerias fine-dining scene. “Culi’s Restaurant & Bar” is located on a quiet street in a working-class neighbourhood just north of Bucerias’ main highway. Unfortunately, this highway essentially divides the “tourist-areas” from the “Mexican-part” of Bucerias and many of the misinformed or unadventurous touristas will never venture into this part of town – especially at night. Culi’s is off the beaten tourist-track but only a short (but bumpy) taxi ride off the highway. To get their patrons home safely, Culi’s staff will happily arrange for a taxi after your visit. Let me again stress that while located in the “Mexican-part” of town, Culi’s is in a working-class neighbourhood; a community of hard-working, every-day, Mexican families… this IS NOT a “dangerous place”.

When you first arrive at Culi’s, you’ll be greeted with a small porch-like dining area that flanks the entrance (this area is elevated from the road level by a half-dozen steps). The entrance opens into the main room which has the bar and a staircase. The stairs lead up onto the second floor dining room. The decor is subtle and an exercise in restraint. The usual for Mexican restaurant-decor is, “mo’ is better”; usually resulting in the clash of multiple themes, a kaleidoscope of colours, and/or too much of a good thing. Culi’s is a refreshing change; calm, inviting earthy tones and elegant yet very understated.

We were welcomed at the door by our waiter, “Eric”, and were seated on the porch dining area per our request. On presenting our menus, Eric went on to mention which specific menu-items were either unavailable or “finished for the day” (sold out). We appreciated this as it is very annoying to see something on a menu, decide on it, and only then be told it wasn’t available. He then took our drink orders; a Margarita for Eron and a Pacifico for myself.

Our drinks arrived in just moments and we ordered our appetizer and entrees. According to Eron, her Margarita was very good… not the best she’s had but very good. The notable remark was that is was, “very tart”.

Shortly after our drinks were served, another member of the wait-staff brought an order of Culi’s complimentary “Ceviche de Camaron” to our table. The shrimp was finely-diced, wonderfully seasoned, and served in a half green bell pepper. It was accompanied with crackers, crisp thin tortillas, and a “green sauce” – this was not a salsa verde; it was mostly like a lime and cilantro-based sauce but had a delightful heat on the tip of the tongue. This ceviche was also “drier” than most I’ve tried; I liked the texture and how it sat on the tortilla. Even if you are not a fan of ceviche, give this a try.

Next up was our appetizer. We ordered the “Caprese Salad” to be shared. It was served on individual plates.

Culi’s Caprese Salad

The Beefsteak Tomato was fresh, firm, and absolutely full of flavour. It was definitely NOT your typical tasteless California or hot-house grown red ball. The Bocconcini was firm and had good mouth-feel, and the Basil was locally-grown and intensely flavourful. Overall, the salad was one of the best versions of this classic we have had.

My choice for entree was the, “Agave-Glazed Pork Tenderloin”.

Culi’s Agave-Glazed Pork Tenderloin

The plating was what I term, “Nouveau Cuisine but with real portions.” There are actually four pieces of tenderloin in between the two layers of vegetables. The pork was topped with wilted spinach and green beans along with thin crisp pieces of yam. Beneath the pork was a medley of slivered root vegetables and slices of bell peppers. The pork had a agave-glaze and was accompanied by a red wine reduction.

The pork tenderloin was perfectly prepared; moist, tender, cooked all the way through, and yet still retained a hint of colour.

Perfectly prepared pork tenderloin

The agave-glaze lent a natural sweetness to the crust on the pork; a perfect counterpoint to the red wine boldness of the reduction sauce. The notable thing about the sauce; the lack of bitterness. Many reduction sauces carry a certain bitter finish, this one did not and complimented the pork extremely well.

The vegetables were very well prepared; crispy and flavourful. Eron even remarked that the veggies were almost, “too crisp” – like they were just slid from one edge of a hot wok, across the bottom, and up to the other edge. I thought they were terrific. The only criticism I had, and it is more a statement regarding my palate than a real criticism; was that the wilted spinach was touch too salty for my taste. Overall, this dish is definitely recommended!

Eron’s choice for entree is a staple of tropical restaurants; “Coconut Shrimp”.

Culi’s Coconut Shrimp

Culi’s presentation was very artistic and colourful; with the shrimp nestled on top of diced fresh pineapple and crisp root vegetables. The topping consisted of deep-fried rice vermicelli and deep-fried thin yam slices. The shrimp were butterflied and coated with a layer of shredded coconut; the shrimp was well-cooked, firm , but not rubbery and the coconut was quite fresh with a definite coconut flavour. In Eron’s opinion, Culi’s version of this classic tropical dish was, “very good, not the best ever, but very good”. Her only criticism was that there was not nearly enough dipping sauce for the amount of shrimp. In fact, a third of the order actually came home with us as left-overs. Overall, if you’re a fan of this dish, you will not be disappointed.

And finally, “we just had to” try Culi’s famous “Key-Lime Pie” for dessert.

Culi’s Key-Lime Pie

Once again, the presentation was top-notch; the spun-sugar garnish was a nice artistic touch. We both felt that while it was not the best we’ve ever had, this version of key-lime pie was definitely one of the better ones. It was not overly sweet and the slightly bitter lime-finish lingered on the palate. The crust was a highlight; it had a very “Graham Crackery” taste and was firm and held together well. Eron’s biggest criticism was that it was not quite limey enough; that first bite didn’t “shock” the tongue. Overall, a very good version of this dessert-classic.

I also ordered coffee with dessert; unfortunately, Culi’s does not serve expresso. The good-thing about this was that their “Cafe Americano” is some of the best I’ve had in Mexico. It was very dark, rich, extremely flavourful, and was not at all bitter. With just a bit of milk, it was great with the pie.

For me, one of the most delightful surprises of the evening was actually being encouraged to light-up an after-dinner cigar on the porch dining-area. After dessert, Eron asked the wait-staff if she could smoke at the table. Their answer was, “But of course”, and proceeded to bring an ashtray and lighter. Eron, realizing she didn’t bring any cigarettes, headed up the block to a nearby abarrote; our waiter came running up to me saying he would go to the store to get cigarettes for her. Now, how about that for service! I came prepared and had brought a Camacho Corojo corona. So, to top off a wonderful dining experience, I was able to enjoy an after-dinner cigar at the table… fine-dining just does not get any better than this!

Post-Dessert, dessert

This visit to Culi’s Restaurant & Bar is definitely one of our culinary highlights. All-too-often we encounter restaurants which excel in certain aspects yet disappoint in others. Culi’s is one of the rare exceptions; it is not inexpensive yet represents very good value for your money, the establishment is well-decorated yet not over-done, the wait-staff are very attentive yet not “hovering”, and the food is amongst the best we have had the pleasure of experiencing. The final tab for this evening was 685 Pesos (about $43 Cdn) before tip; this included the appetizer, two entrees, dessert, coffee, two margaritas, and a beer. I have read many reviews on this restaurant and some have valid criticisms. So, my caveat for this review is that we visited late (9 PM) in the evening on a Wednesday night during the shoulder-season (mid-April). However, based on our (admittedly) limited experience with Culi’s, Eron and I are both giving an enthusiastic thumbs-up and recommending them to anyone who wishes to enjoy a true fine-dining experience at casual prices.

Important note: Culi’s is a CASH-Only establishment. They do not accept credit cards and the closest ATM (HSBC) will be on Highway 200, about 3 blocks south from 5 de Mayo (towards Las Palmas).

Calle 5 de Mayo # 32, Bucerias 63732, Mexico – +52 322 159 6929

https://www.facebook.com/Culis-Restaurant-Bar-350524795115786/

Posted in Cigars, Food and Drink, Travels | Tagged Bucerias Mexico, Culi's Restaurant & Bar | 1 Comment

Leo’s Place – Bucerias, Nayarit, Mexico

Posted on April 22, 2017 by East to Hedon

Leo’s Place

“Leo’s Place” is one of THE goto restaurants in Bucerias for good, hearty-portioned, home-style meals that will not damage the budget. They are located about 1/2 block up a side street (Galeana) from the main tourist drag (Lazaro Cardenas); across from and just up the street from Abarrote Maripaz (the local have-everything grocery store).

This is an “owner-run” restaurant with the dedicated and hardworking couple, Christina and Leo, putting in incredible hours each and every day except for Sundays.

Christina and Leo

They serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner six days a week; 9 AM through 2:30 PM then 5:30 PM until closing at 10:00 PM. They carry soft drinks. However, if you wish to have beer, liquor, or wine; they’ll point you over to Maripaz or you can just plan ahead and BYOB. They do not charge a corkage fee.

This is their first year of operation; they opened in September 2016. However, many Bucerias-veterans will remember Christina and Leo as the couple who ran Restaurante La Luna until the owner closed operations in 2016. Leo’s Place has several tables in a small dining room, a half-dozen tables on the sidewalk and street, and is decorated in a “Mexican Fiesta” meets burger-shack style. But don’t let the fast-food joint looks deceive you; they are a sit-down restaurant (although they happily do take-out). Their menu consists of hearty breakfasts, Norte Americano staples, and many of the Mexican favourites. However, it’s their daily special that you should always ask about. It changes every day (seafood dishes being on Tuesdays and Fridays) and what it is will depend on customer requests, availability of ingredients, and what strikes Christina’s fancy. The daily special will be written on a small sign near the door and posted on their FaceBook page.

Yesterday evening, Eron and I each had the “Beer Battered Fish Bites” special for dinner. The special came with a coleslaw-salad, Mexican rice, refried beans, and tortillas. There was a decent-sized serving of fish; the pieces were well-cooked and covered in a nice, crispy beer batter. The house Chipotle Sauce complimented the fish very well. The only constructive criticism I have would be to switch-up the side dishes every once in a while. We have had a number of different daily specials (all very tasty), yet the sides were always the same; not a problem with one-off diners but can get repetitive for the “regulars”. The two specials and a Pepsi (only ’cause they don’t serve Coca Cola ;-)) came to 325 Pesos; under $21 Cdn for two dinners. So, if you are in Bucerias and you are looking for good, solid eats that will not break the bank; Christina and Leo’s can definitely help you out at Leo’s Place.

Leo’s Place: Calle Galeana 14A, Bucerias 63732, Mexico

523221434634

https://www.facebook.com/Leos-Place-Bucerias-1647749412204453/

Posted in Food and Drink, Travels | Tagged Bucerias Mexico, Leo's Place | 1 Comment

Toro’s Bar – Bucerias, Nayarit, Mexico

Posted on April 21, 2017 by East to Hedon

Toro’s Bar

Yesterday evening Eron and I decided to try out a place we’d walked past almost every day for the past couple of weeks. The place is called, “Toro’s Bar”. It’s on Lazaro Cardenas, about 1/2 block west of Casa Glea.

The decor is pretty typical for a small Mexican, family-run establishment. They have a few tables out on the street and a few tables inside. Although open to the street, the interior is very tidy with clean Banos available for patrons. And true to being named “Toro’s Bar”, they do have an actual bar that spans the width of the establishment at the rear of the room. On this evening, they were playing a good 60’s and 70’s mix of Rock Classics; loud enough to hear but not intrusive.

On arrival at Toro’s, you’ll most likely be personally greeted by Christopher del Toro, the proprietor/host/maitre de/waiter/bartender. He’s very friendly, gregarious, and speaks very good English. When asked about recommendations, Christopher will proudly proclaim that they make the, “best hamburger in Mexico!”, and that he blends the, “best Margarita you’ll ever have.”

Well, with claims like that, we just had to try both. I’m not sweet-drink aficionado so Eron ordered a House-Special Margarita while I had a Pacifico. Eron declared that the margarita was, “a little sweet”, but otherwise “pretty damned good”. A definite thumbs-up from her! According to Christopher, instead of Tequila, he uses a local artisan-distilled Mescal and a natural agave syrup in his version of the classic cocktail. He told us he can adjust the sweetness to a customer’s preference on subsequent orders AND remember their preference on future visits. We’ll have to test him on that during our next visit.

If you’ve ever tried the usual “Hamburgesea” offerings in the resorts and restaurants in Mexico, you’ll know what I mean when I describe them as as mostly forgettable, occasionally memorably bad, or horribly over-priced. The usual fair being a very sad, thin, commercially-produced excuse for a pattie on a plain dry bun with maybe a piece of limp lettuce and a ring or two of raw onion; totally uninspired and absolutely unappetizing.

Apparently, Christopher has heard the complaints and this is his response:

The Toro’s Hamburger.

This, folks, is an honest-to-goodness, real home-style, dislocate-your-jaw-to-eat cheeseburger with BACON! The pattie is old-school; it’s thick and handmade with pieces of diced onion, herbs, and seasonings mixed-in. The tomato slices, onion slices, and lettuce portions are all fresh and generous; the produce is purchased every morning at local markets. The slice of cheese is not wafer-thin nor is it processed; it’s real local cheese. You get a hearty portion of actual thick-slice bacon; it’s salt-cured but not overly salty. And thankfully, this burger is not drowned in a coating of any “special sauce”. You get to add your own mayonnaise, ketchup, and mustard.

Dislocate-your-jaw-to-eat thick!

The beef pattie was cooked perfectly; the middle was medium-well without any obvious “pink” yet still very moist with the outside having that all-so-satisfying crusty-crunch when you bite into it. In the photo, you can even see the fresh herbs and diced onion in the pattie. It had a definite, “beefy” taste that was never overwhelmed by the seasonings. The bacon was treated with respect as well. It was cooked all the way through and was crispy but not “incinerated” into the consistency of dried-out jerky like at most places. About the only downside was; the bun didn’t have the necessary tensile strength to hold all of that burger-goodness! The bun started to fall apart after a few bites; I carried on but Eron had to resort to knife and fork. Whilst we can’t vouch for this being the best hamburger in the country, it is definitely the best burger either of us have had outside of the US and Canada.

The other notable item were the French fries that came with the burger – they were, in a word, fantastic! They were some of the best fries I have had, ANYWHERE! They were deep-fried to a gold brown on the exterior with that perfect, crisp mouth-feel and that sought-after soft “potatoey” texture on the interior… yum!

Toro’s Bar is now definitely on our list of local goto restaurants in Bucerias. All told, our tab for the evening was about $34 Cdn (before tip); that was for two burgers, two Margaritas (yep, Eron “had to” try another), a Pacifico, and a soft drink. That puts Toro’s solidly into our “medium-priced” category of eateries. However, their combination of good service, great food, and good value-for-the-dollar will have us coming back again. We recommend you give Toro’s Bar a try when you’re in Bucerias.

Update:

On April 22, 2017, we visited Toro’s for the second time.

Toro’s interior. There’s also a sizable al fresco dining area to the right.

We tried Toro’s tacos for dinner this evening. The fish taco (bottom) was delicious with a large serving of tender, moist, mildly seasoned fish. The beef taco (left) was very good with small chunks of mildly seasoned beef. The restrained use of spices really let the taste of the meat be the real star. And the chicken taco (right) had moist pieces of diced chicken, again with a very light seasoning. The tortillas themselves were even a delightful surprise; handmade in-house by Christopher’s wife (the chef) and made 100% with a locally-ground varietal of maize grown specifically for use in the making of tortillas. The resulting tortillas have the strength to hold the fillings yet remain soft, have a definite corn taste, and present you with a nice “mouth-feel” as they are being chewed. The tacos were accompanied by small bowls containing salsa rosa (a nice heat on the front of the tongue and around the inside of the lips), salsa verde, salsa aguacate (avocado), and salsa ranch. They also provided a small dish of diced onions and cilantro. Eron also ordered their house special Margarita made with Raicillo (a local artisanal variety of Mescal). All told, we had 5 tacos, 2 Margaritas, and a cola with the tab coming to 385 Pesos (about $24 Cdn); pretty reasonable for a dinner for two.

Toro’s tacos; fish (bottom), beef (left), and chicken (right).

On April 27, 2017 we had our third visit to Toro’s Bar:

This evening I tried the Toro’s Bar Chicken Wings. When combined with an order of French Fries, it was a good-sized meal for one. They were certainly not your typical pre-cooked then over-cooked, smothered in Frank’s Red Hot, bar-wings. These were perfectly cooked; tender, no “pink” (even along the bone), moist, and had a crispy-crunch along the edges . Instead of the usual wing-flavours, Toro’s seasons theirs with a hand-rubbed blend of powdered chili. The flavour was quite complex with a heat that slowly built up as you ate more of them. The wings were accompanied by generous servings of matchstick carrots and celery. There was also a dipping sauce but unfortunately, it’s flavour was too subtle and was simply “lost”. No problem though, the wings were great on their own; they “didn’t need no stinkin’ sauce!”

Toro’s Chicken Wings

https://www.tripadvisor.ca/Restaurant_Review-g657267-d12078859-Reviews-Toro_s_Bar-Bucerias_Pacific_Coast.html

https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=toro’s%20bar%20bucerias

Posted in Food and Drink, Travels | Tagged Bucerias Mexico, Toro's Bar | 2 Comments

Mark’s Bar and Grill – Bucerias, Nayarit, Mexico

Posted on April 16, 2017 by East to Hedon

Mark’s Bar & Grill from the corner of Galeana and Lazaro Cardenas

On Thursday April 13th, Eron and celebrated our anniversary with dinner at Mark’s Bar & Grill in Bucerias, Nayarit, Mexico. This restaurant has been in business for a number years and is considered to be one of the standard-bearers for fine dining in Bucerias. Mark’s is located on the “main tourist drag”; Lazaro Cardenas. So, it is very easy to find. Besides, EVERY local cabbie can get you there. On approach, Mark’s is a single story structure situated on a corner with an inviting feel to it.

On entry, you are greeted by a hostess at the door where you will be offered seating in either the spacious (by Bucerias standards) main room or on the open-air patio for al fresco dining. We choose the patio; as we walked through the main room, we noted it was warm, inviting, and very tastefully decorated. The patio was enclosed on two sides with cleverly built masonry walls which provided privacy from passersby yet allowed the movement of air. The third side opened into the main room and the last was mostly a wall separating the patio from the kitchen area. Overall, we both thought the decor was well-executed; a “pan-tropical” theme with hints of Mediterranean influence.

The service from our waiter, Reuben; was friendly, polite, and attentive. In fact, all the staff were quite professional. Mark’s offers a good list of various wines and specialty cocktails. However, curiously for a “bar & grill”, they did not offer a liquor or whisky menu. Eron and I ordered their “Caipirinha” (a Brazilian Cachaça-based cocktail). They certainly receive high marks for a generous pour. Unfortunately, their version of the cocktail lacked the subtlety of flavour we have come to expect with well-executed versions of this mixed drink.

For the appetizer, we ordered the “Tempura Tuna Rolls”. It was presented well with an attractive plating and a garnish of fresh greens. At this point, we also learned something new in Spanish from a waiter. The Mexican term for chopsticks is “palillos Chino”; literally, Chinese toothpicks. The tuna rolls were certainly a departure from what would be considered traditional. These were not Maki rolls in that they were not rolled around sushi rice. Neither were they Nigiri. The tuna was formed into a “column”, rolled in a sheet of seaweed, dipped in tempura, deep-fried, and then sliced and served similar to Maki rolls. The taste and consistency of the tuna was good; indicative of fresh, quality fish. However, the shoyu they served with the dish was “flat” tasting and had saltiness as it’s only characteristic. Their wasabi and pickled ginger were of the quality I expect from most any place serving sushi. We did not particularly miss the sushi rice in the roll as this made room for more tuna. The tempura on the exterior of the roll would have made a nice replacement for the carbohydrate in this dish. But alas, there wasn’t enough of it and it was too unevenly coated on the rolls to provide anything more than the barest hint of a tempura-crunch. The verdict; quite edible with good tuna but not very memorable.

For the entree, Eron had the “Lobster Ravioli” and I ordered the “Macadamia Nut Crusted Red Snapper”. Eron’s ravioli appeared to be fresh and made in-house. Although there were only four pieces, they were quite substantial enough to satisfy her. The pasta was definitely al dente (almost too much) and enclosed a decent portion of langosta (the local-sourced “lobster”; actually a variety of crayfish). “Coral Sauce” was used to accompany the pasta. We suspect it is a tomato-based cream sauce with chipotle for a little smokey heat. Eron found the sauce-serving to be scrimpy and somewhat bland. The verdict; this dish had good “lobster” flavour, the sauce was too little and too bland, and the pasta on the verge of being under-done.

My “Macadamia Nut Crusted Red Snapper” was also a mixed-bag. The portion-size for the Red Snapper was quite generous; unfortunately due to it’s shape, some of it was over-done and the centre was slightly under-cooked. The macadamia nut crust was, in a word, disappointing. Most of the nuts were ground into a coarse meal-like consistency instead of simply crushed to preserve that uniquely macadamia nut-crunch. To understand true mastery of making dishes with a macadamia nut crust, you have to try the versions presented at Mama’s Fish-House in Paia, Maui, Hawaii. The wilted spinach was tasty but the fruit salsa, although a good accompaniment, was mostly mango and there was not enough of it. The fish was served on top of a skimming of “Thai Curry Sauce”. It was reddish, it had some sort of curry in it, and it had heat that hit me on the tip of my tongue and around the inside of the opening my mouth. However, that was it; it had absolutely none of the subtle flavors found in abundance in good curries and as to what makes it “Thai”; I’m still not quite sure. The verdict; not the best (or even close to) fish, macadamia nut-crusted, or curry dish I’ve had… it did look quite pretty and appetizing when it was saved though.

The two dishes where served “nouveau cuisine” style. In other words, some food, lots of plate. Neither were served with any other accompaniments. However, fresh bread was offered.

For dessert, Eron ordered “Key Lime Pie” and I had the “Creme Brûlée” with an expresso coffee. The key lime pie was very, “limey”; with a shock of lime flavour that hits your palate a stays for the first few bites. The Oreo-chocolate crust was nice and chewy with still a hint of crunchiness. A definite thumbs up from Eron.

My Creme Brûlée was made n the classic style and was served with a whole fresh strawberry and a drizzle of strawberry sauce on the plate. There were no real surprises here; a good thing. It was a well-made Creme Brûlée with that satisfying caramelized sugar crunch and the vanilla-custard flavour. The strawberry was fresh, ripe, and tasty. The only downside was that the consistency of the custard had an almost curdled mouth-feel to it; it didn’t affect the flavour but it might be a little off-putting to some. Due to this, I would try a different dessert the next time around. The expresso coffee was rich and flavourful; with a couple of packets of azucar stirred in, it made for a decent facsimile of a Cafe Cubano.

It may seem like this review has been rather harsh and “picky”. However, at their price-point, Mark’s has no excuse. They have positioned themselves at the upper end of the price-spectrum for dining-options in this town. Whilst I do very much appreciate the ambiance of an establishment, and the professionalism of it’s staff; it is the food that ultimately makes it or breaks it for my opinion of a restaurant.

My final thoughts on Mark’s Bar & Grill are that if you are looking for “special occasion” restaurant with a very inviting ambiance, that is very clean and well-kept, and employs a very friendly and professional front-of-the-house staff; this is a good choice. However, bear in mind, while the food is “decent” it does not quite match the excellence-in-details displayed in the other aspects of this establishment.

Main entrance

Home

Posted in Food and Drink, Travels | Tagged Bucerias Mexico, Mark's Bar & Grill | 1 Comment

Wild Game Dinner at the Kingswood Pub in Richmond BC

Posted on March 31, 2017 by East to Hedon

Well, instead of waking from a restful slumber, this morning Eron and I are recovering (barely) from last night’s food-induced coma. I swear the good folks at the Kingswood Pub are trying to kill us… and their weapon of choice is irresistible food. Yesterday evening, Keith and the Kingswood Pub hosted a “Wild Game Dinner”; they also brought in Marcus VonAlbrecht to host an optional Scotch tasting.

The simple words, “Incredible Evening“, just do not do justice to the veritable parade of treats that our palates were introduced to. To start off the evening, Marcus acquainted us with three of his personal “friends”.

The first Whiskey he had us sample was the, Usquaebach “The Reserve”. It is 43%, or 86 Proof. This is a rare blend of 15 Whiskeys; all of which are between 15 and 19 years of barrel-age. The nose was light with just the hint of an alcohol “bite” and the aroma of aged Sherry. This Whiskey teased your palate with the flavours of Sherry, honey, spices, and the essence of Bourbon from the aging casks. It’s finish was long and full-bodied and featured a spice on the rear of the tongue along with the sweetness of Sherry.

The next was the, Illeach “Cask Strength”. It is 56%, 112 Proof. This is considered a “Cult Whiskey” and the exact age of the Whiskeys used in this blend are a “mystery”. However, in Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible, it was his Number 2 choice in both 2008 and 2009 with 96 Points. The nose was very light with just the very hint of peat and surprisingly, no “bite”. On the palate, this Whiskey was a near-perfect balance for those who appreciate just a touch of peat in their Whiskey. The finish was an interesting progression; the peatiness slowly faded and left a slightly bitter oakiness with a tang of spice on the tongue. With a drop of water added, the flavour opened to reveal a fruity sweetness.

The final “friend” was the, Finlaggan “Cask Strength”. It is 58%, 116 Proof. This Whiskey is best savoured after you have warmed it by holding the glass in your hands for a few moments. The nose is very surprisingly light; with only a suggestion of the peat to come. Once on the palate, this Whiskey shows it’s true colours. It has an almost astringent earthiness with a smoky, tarry peatiness and the definite presence of sea salt. It’s finish was, as expected, long and smooth with a very fruity-smoky combination and notes that are reminiscent of cigar smoke.

And that was just the “appetizer” for the evening; next came the actual dinner portion of the event.

Chef Peter, once again out-did himself. He took us on a culinary journey south to the cuisine of New Orleans, Louisiana (NOLA). The evening’s NOLA-inspired dishes were a fantastic introduction to both game meat and the flavours that embody that great culinary centre.

The first dish presented was Chef Peter’s, “Crocodile Sausage with Beans and Peppers”. It was served piping-hot on cast iron platters. The crocodile sausage itself was one of the very few items that was not actually made in-house but it was delicious, fresh , and fit very well with it’s accompanying ingredients. The sausage was prepared “Gumbo-style” with bell peppers, beans, and spices (notably black pepper and thyme). While there definitely was heat on your palate, the spice was very approachable and not at all over-powering. This gumbo was served with slices of fresh baguette. Very tasty indeed.

Crocodile Sausage with Beans and Peppers

Next up was the “Wild Boar Ragu”. The fettuccini was cooked to perfection; soft but retaining just a touch of al dente. The tomato-based sauce was an exercise in restraint. It held a definite edge of peppery spice but did not over-power the flavour of the meat. Which brings us to the Wild Boar; it was fork-tender, flavourful, and had just enough gaminess to let you know it wasn’t just pork. A very tasty and satisfying dish.

Wild Boar Ragu

Then came the, “Fallow Red Deer Medallions”. The meat was BBQ’ed, sliced and placed onto mashed potatoes and served with a medley of pan-roasted veggies. The medallions were crusted with a rim of salty-peppery rub. The flavour of this rub contrasted very nicely with the subtle gaminess of the meat. However, due to the strong saltiness of the rub, it did over-power the meat if the pieces were too small to hold their own. Texture-wise, the deer meat was wonderful. It held that soft yet firm consistency that is familiar to those who enjoy well-prepared Chinese BBQ Pork. The mashed potatoes had a very light consistency and the sweetness of real butter exploded on your tongue with every forkful. The vegetables were excellent; the green beans still had a satisfying “snap”, the zucchini was still crisp, and the red peppers were both colourful and sweet. Nicely done; the only caveat being the saltiness over-powering some of the smaller pieces of deer.

Fallow Red Deer Medallions

The last dish of the event was the, “Crawfish-Stuffed Quail” with “Cornbread Dressing”. The quail, being such a small bird, is difficult to roast without sacrificing the meat on the thighs and wings. And similar to my previous experiences with squab, these quail retained moist, tasty meat on the bodies but the limbs (especially the wings) were over-done and dry. This is not a criticism, just an observation. The real “treat” of this dish however, was the stuffing. The crawfish stuffing was rich, flavourful, yet not “gluey” in any way, and was very subtle in it’s spiciness. The dressing that was served as a side was delicious. It had the very distinct sweetness of cornbread but spreads to a pleasant spiciness that seemed to coat the rear of the tongue and the roof of the mouth. The cornbread had lost it’s mealiness but did not become gluey; well done! The two together were a well-presented gastronomic-ode to NOLA.

Crawfish-Stuffed Quail

Cornbread Dressing

And speaking of odes to NOLA; for dessert, we were each presented with freshly house-made “Beignets with Bourbon-Caramel Sauce”. The only thing missing was Café du Monde’s famous chicory coffee. In fact, Chef Peter made his beignets to the cafe’s actual recipe. These bite-sized pastries were served warm-from-the-kitchen, were dusted with confectionary sugar, and accompanied by dishes of house-made Bourbon-Caramel dipping sauce. A very tasty end to an evening that truly straddled the fine line that sometimes separates gourmet-gourmand and gluttony.

Beignets with Bourbon-Caramel Sauce

After the seemingly endless parade of foods had finally drawn to an end, those of us who wished to (and who could still actually move under their own power) waddled out to the semi-enclosed patio. There we topped off the evening with a final drink (or two), the comradery of friends, and fine cigars.

Once more, I must thank Keith and his staff at the Kingswood Pub for welcoming us into their establishment. Thanks to Marcus for introducing us to some of his friends. And, many kudos to Chef Peter for guiding us through a fantastic little culinary tour of New Orleans. I, for one, am looking forward to whatever the next event at the Kingswood happens to be.

Kingswood Pub
9371 No 5 Rd., Richmond, British Columbia V7A 4T9

Posted in Cigars, Food and Drink | Tagged Game Meat Dinners, Kingswood Pub, Whiskie Tastings | 1 Comment

Craft Beer Dinner at the Kingswood Pub in Richmond, BC.

Posted on February 3, 2017 by East to Hedon

Yesterday evening ( Thursday February 2, 2017) I attended a Craft Beer Dinner hosted by the Kingswood Pub in Richmond, BC. Thanks to the staff and owners, it was yet another night of memorable culinary delights. Rob Angus from “Beerthirst” (http://www.beerthirst.com/tag/beerthirst/) was on hand to introduce us to and guide us through the tasting of four craft beers from their portfolio. Meanwhile Peter, the Chef at the Kingswood, dazzled us with his edible creations.

Rob Angus of “Beerthirst” hosting the craft beer tasting.

The first pairing of the evening was the “Sixpoint Jammer Gose” served with “Spice-cured Salmon accompanied with a Horseradish/Wasabi spread”. This Gose is a slightly sour “summer beer” brewed in NYC. It is refreshing to the palate and has a distinct saltiness with hints of coriander. This particular beer went very well with the salmon dish.

Generous tasting-pour of the Sixpoint Jammer Gose.

Sixpoint Jammer Gose.

The salmon had a firm texture and was delightfully smoky/salty on the tongue; the sharp bite of the horseradish/wasabi spread served as a nice counterpoint as did the crunchiness of the toasted baguette slices.

Spice-cured Salmon with Horseradish/Wasabi Spread.

The second pairing was of the “Redhook Longhammer IPA” with “Thai-Curried Scallops”. This IPA was moderately “hoppy” with an “44 IBU” and featured an alcohol content of around 6%. It was brewed in Woodinville, WA. It has the classic IPA taste and effectively freshened the palate between mouthfuls of the curry. Peter was, in-the-zone, with this curry. This was a “red curry” and was chock-a-block-full of ingredients; it was loaded with tender scallops (perfectly cooked without any “rubbery” in the chew), red and green peppers which had retained some firmness, rice that still had good texture, and that just-right contrast between the curry-spice and a creamy coconut sweetness.

Thai-Curried Scallops.

The third pairing was of the “Redhook Audible Pale Ale” and a “Smoked Pork Rillettes”. This pale ale was brewed in Seattle, WA. It has a very mild flavour and thus was ideal for pairing with the subtle flavours of the rillettes. The rillettes was made from house-smoked pork and was served with a side of hot olives and pickled onions; the onions were a superb counterpoint to the smokiness of the rillettes. The crusty bread was also nice. However, the real treat here was the “bacon jam”. It was also made in-house and was a fantastic base on which to build your “mini rillettes sandwich”.

Smoked Pork Rillettes with Hot Olives & Pickled Onions plus Bacon Jam.

Smoked Pork Rillettes – made in-house.

Hot Olives & Pickled Onions.

House-made Bacon Jam.

Smoked Pork Rillettes mini sandwich.

The final pairing of the evening was the “Sixpoint 5 Bean Porter” with the “Beef Carpaccio”. This robust porter is to be served at room temperature. It features an unusually high alcohol content of around 10% and is slightly sweet, malty, and viscous on the palate. Due to being made with five types of coffee beans, it brings a very rich expresso/unsweetened dark chocolate hit to your taste buds. It paired perfectly with the beef.

Sixpoint 5Bean Porter.

The carpaccio was made in-house using beef tenderloin rubbed with coffee, salt, and pepper. It was drizzled with a “truffle aioli” and a “balsamic vinegar reduction”. It was dusted with shavings of “Marechal” (an unpasteurized Swiss cheese). And was topped with mixed greens. The beef was literally, melt-in-your-mouth, and had an earthy richness with a distinct coffee taste. The creaminess of the truffle aioli balanced well with the tart sweetness of the vinegar reduction. The cheese gave some nice “tooth” to the very tender beef. And the crisp bitterness of the greens went well with the overall richness of the dish.

Beef Carpaccio.

All in all, this was another exemplary evening of food and drink at the Kingswood Pub. At just $30 for this dinner (including the beers), it was absolutely a great value for the dollars spent. As usual, Keith and his staff were friendly, efficient, and did everything they could to make their guests feel truly welcomed. And once again, KUDOS to Peter. This young man is the real deal – he truly is a Chef worthy of the title. If you are interested in sampling the creations of a, “culinary star of tomorrow”, make your way down to this quiet little neighbourhood pub in south Richmond.

As I write this posting, Keith and Peter are planning the menu for their next event. They are hosting a “Game Meat with Scotch” dinner on Thursday March 30, 2017. Keep an eye open for the official announcement… I know I’ll be.

http://www.kingswoodpub.ca/

Posted in Food and Drink | Tagged Craft Beer Tasting, Kingswood Pub | Leave a comment

Robbie Burns Day Celebration at the Kingswood Pub, Richmond, BC

Posted on January 26, 2017 by East to Hedon

Yesterday, January 25th, was Robbie Burns Day. I had the good fortune to be able to celebrate it in the company of friends at the Kingswoood Pub in Richmond, BC. Theirs was not a “traditional”, formal Burns Dinner; but rather an casual celebration of the occasion. Of course, there was the skirl of the pipes, Haggis, and Scotch; but none of the formality, solemnity, nor the rigid adherence to tradition that can sometimes be overbearing.

Rather than a traditional “piping-in of the Haggis”, we were treated to over an hour of bagpipe music. The Piper played all the “classic” tunes and quite a few I’ve never heard before. Bravo, for a job well done!

The Kingswood sourced four Scotch Whiskies specifically for this event. They featured; “Usquaebach – The Reserve”, the “Royal Brackla 9 Year Old”, the “MacDuff 7 Year Old”, and the “Ardmore 8 Year Old”. To make it easy on our wallets, we could choose any three of the Whiskies for only $15. I chose the Usquaebach, the Royal Brackla, and the Ardmore.

The Usquaebach nosed with a hint of aged sherry; it’s palate had the viscousness of honey, the sweetness of sherry, and a spiciness on the tongue; it finished long with notes of spice and sherry.

The Royal Brackla nosed with vanilla and nuts/grains; it’s palate featured an apple tartness up-front, some notes of honey and grain, and a peppery spiciness; It had a medium finish with the hint of spice as well as some chocolate.

The Ardmore had a nose with caramel and oak with just a teasing of peat; the palate surprised with a generous helping of smoke and peat to go along with the caramel and slightly spicy oak; it’s finish featured more caramel and smoke but was quite smooth.

The menu for this evening consisted of; “Cock a Leek” soup as the starter, Roast Lamb as the main, and “Tipsy Laird” as the desert – all for $20. In addition, they also had a, “Haggis Bridie” available for $8.

“Cock a Leek” soup is a traditional barley and leek soup with chicken. The chef at the Kingswood did a fantastic job with this dish. It was thick, hearty, had that “comfort-food” taste and texture, and was truly worthy of being called “stick-to-your-ribs” good.

Cock a Leek soup

For the Roast Lamb main course, the chef roasted lamb shoulders to perfection. The meat was fork-tender, seasoned perfectly, had just the right hint of gameness, and was not “fatty” in the least. The lamb was accompanied by well-prepared carrots and green peas (both with just the right amount of firmness remaining), a rich brown gravy, and some of the best roasted baby potatoes I’ve had. However, the real surprise was the mint sauce; it was completely made in-house and was wonderfully fresh and absolutely bursting with minty flavour.

Roast Lamb dinner

The “Tipsy Laird” was this chef’s take on the traditional English Trifle desert. Instead of layering over sponge cake, this desert used “Lady Finger” biscuits. This made for a slight sugary crunch and this went very well with the tart firmness of the fresh fruit and the sweetness of the cream… delicious.

Tipsy Laird

For those whose Robbie Burns Day would not be complete without Haggis, the chef presented the “Haggis Bridie”. This was definitely not your traditional serving of Haggis but it was terrific. If you’re one of those, “no Haggis for me” types… THIS is the Haggis for you. For full-disclosure, the chef told me that the Haggis itself was purchased from a local specialty butcher shop. However, all the other dishes and accompaniments were cooked in-house. This dish featured Haggis baked inside puff-pastry; creating what, for all intents and purposes, is a “Haggis Wellington”. It was mouth-wateringly good with a generous portion of rich, moist Haggis nestled within a cocoon of flakey puff-pastry. It was served with brown gravy atop a root vegetable mash (yams, turnips, and rutabaga) sprinkled with pan-seared kale. This dish was truly a meal in itself.

Haggis Bridie

Once again, I would like to thank Keith, the culinary staff, and the service staff at the Kingswood Pub for hosting yet another incredible gastronomic journey.

https://www.facebook.com/search/str/kingswood%2Bpub/keywords_search?filters_rp_author=1603509656633544

Posted in Food and Drink | Tagged Kingswood Pub, Robbie Burns Dinner, Whiskie Tastings | 1 Comment

Rums and Game Meat at the Kingswood Pub in Richmond, BC.

Posted on January 8, 2017 by East to Hedon

I was left wandering about for several days in a food-induced, gastronomic stupor… all thanks to the fine folks at the Kingswood Pub in Richmond, BC. On Thursday December 1st, 2016, I had the pleasure of attending their, “Wild Game and Rum Tasting”. What began as a simple journey of gastronomic discovery inexorably slid off the rails and ended up, albeit very pleasurably, a tumble off the cliff of culinary gluttony.

We began the evening with our rum-host, Marcus, introducing us to the three rums to be tasted; the Malteco Anejo Suave 10 year old from Guatemala, the Rum Malecon Reserva Superior 15 year old from Panama, and the Rum Malecon Reserva Imperial 25 year old from Panama.

002-wild-game-rum-tasting-kingswood-2016-12-01

Our rum-host, Marcus.

001-wild-game-rum-tasting-kingswood-2016-12-01

The Malteco Anejo Suave 10 year old from Guatemala, the Rum Malecon Reserva Superior 15 year old from Panama, and the Rum Malecon Reserva Imperial 25 year old from Panama.

I found the first to be pleasantly sweet and smooth with a distinct absence of alcohol “bite”. The second unfortunately, was rather pedestrian. It lacked any outstanding characteristics that would make it stand out; it was bland. However, the third was a treat. It has an almost viscous texture on the tongue, a rich molasses sweetness, and a nose rich with the aroma of expresso coffee.

The staff at the Kingswood Pub also wasted no time in introducing us to the culinary delights they had in store for us. As Marcus was introducing the rums, our “side dishes” were brought out; mashed yam, eggplant ratatouille, and an orzo salad. All three dishes were prepared in-house.

005-wild-game-rum-tasting-kingswood-2016-12-01

Mashed Yam.

004-wild-game-rum-tasting-kingswood-2016-12-01

Eggplant ratatouille.

Then came the wild game dishes. The first was a Camel Meat Ragu (stew); an appropriately tasty way to prepare what I would imagine could be a lean, possibly “stringy” meat.

003-wild-game-rum-tasting-kingswood-2016-12-01

Camel-meat Ragu.

Then it was time for Wild Boar Belly with Mango on Crostini’s; rich and flavourful on the tongue in contrast to the sweetness of the mango and the crunch of the crostini.

007-wild-game-rum-tasting-kingswood-2016-12-01

Wild Boar Belly with Mango on Crostini’s.

006-wild-game-rum-tasting-kingswood-2016-12-01

The Wild Boar Belly was a tasting-favourite; good thing them made plenty!

Next we enjoyed Braised Rabbit Pizza; a wonderful thin-crust pizza slathered with pieces of moist, tender rabbit.

008-wild-game-rum-tasting-kingswood-2016-12-01

Braised Rabbit Pizza.

This was followed with Crocodile prepared with a dry-rub and accompanied with a Daikon Salad; the crocodile meat was very firm with a saltiness that was contrasted quite well by the freshness of the daikon.

009-wild-game-rum-tasting-kingswood-2016-12-01

Crocodile prepared with a dry-rub and accompanied with a Daikon Salad.

Then came the Kangaroo-Meat Sliders garnished with Candied Shallots; very flavourful though a touch dry in texture.

010-wild-game-rum-tasting-kingswood-2016-12-01

Kangaroo-Meat Sliders garnished with Candied Shallots.

011-wild-game-rum-tasting-kingswood-2016-12-01

Kangaroo-Meat Sliders; a three-bite thing o’ beauty!

So now, just as most of us were about to hoist our flags of gastro-surrender, the culinary staff announce that there are “only” two more dishes. That’s when we had to bear down, suck it up, loosen our belts, and just give in to pure unadulterated gluttony.

The next dish that came out was House-smoked Elk Ribeye with Roasted Baby Potatoes and Green Beans; medium rare, oozing with juices, and with that distinct flavour of cherry wood smoke – absolutely, WOW!

012-wild-game-rum-tasting-kingswood-2016-12-01

House-smoked Elk Ribeye with Roasted Baby Potatoes and Green Beans.

And then finally, Charcoal-grilled Kangaroo Loin on a Parsnip-Celeriac Puree; again, medium rare with free-running juices and with that “crunch” of charring on the exterior.

013-wild-game-rum-tasting-kingswood-2016-12-01

Charcoal-grilled Kangaroo Loin on a Parsnip-Celeriac Puree.

Now, you can appreciate my state of gastronomic stupor. It was truly a culinary adventure and, at $35 per person, an incredible value for the money. My thanks and appreciation go out to the culinary staff at the Kingswood Pub; they went above and way beyond to pull off this “tasting”. I use quotation marks only because this was no mere tasting; it was a veritable feast… a cornucopia of carnivorous culinary delights.

The Kingswood Pub is planning on hosting a series of “tastings” in the up-coming months. Rumour has it they will be hosting a Beer and Food Pairing event in February 2017 featuring a selection of local and import craft beers.

https://www.facebook.com/KingswoodPub/

Posted in Food and Drink | Tagged Game Meat Dinners, Kingswood Pub, Rum Tastings | Leave a comment

Whiskies, Food, and Cigars at the Tapenade Bistro in Richmond’s Historic Steveston District.

Posted on January 8, 2017 by East to Hedon

Tapenade Bistro – Richmond, BC, Canada

On Wednesday November 30th, 2016, I was part of an intimate group who were privileged to be able to enjoy an incredible evening of rare Scotch Whiskies, fantastic food pairings, premium cigars, and the fine company of like-minded souls at the Tapenade Bistro in Richmond, BC.

The Whiskies for the evening.

The evening started off with a Bunnahabhain 14 year old sherry cask (420 bottles worldwide) paired with charcuterie (including Tapenade’s house-smoked duck sausage and house-made olives).

Next we moved on to a Linkwood 18 year old (300 bottles worldwide) paired with ginger and shrimp gyoza accompanied by a citrus dipping sauce.

Linkwood 18 Year Old.

Ginger and shrimp gyoza accompanied by a citrus dipping sauce.

Then it was the Deanston 9 year old sherry finish (300 bottles worldwide) paired with sliders prepared with Tapenade’s house-smoked beef brisket.

Deanston 9 Year Old with a Sherry Finnish.

Sliders prepared with Tapenade’s house-smoked beef brisket.

Finally, we had the Royal Brackla 9 year old (390 bottles worldwide) paired with Tapenade’s own orange-chocolate truffles.

Tapenade’s own orange-chocolate truffles.

This evening, the majority favourite was the Deanston paired with the smoked beef brisket sliders – just, wow!

And as if one’s senses of taste and smell were not already swooning, we concluded the tasting with premium cigars… and, of course, more Whisky.

It was a GREAT evening and the staff and owners of Tapenade were terrific hosts. I’m looking forward to attending many more of their events.

https://www.facebook.com/tapenadebistro/

Posted in Cigars, Food and Drink | Tagged Whiskie Tastings | 2 Comments

Wandering Through The Kingdom of Thailand – April 10, 2014 and April 10, 2014 AGAIN!

Posted on April 11, 2014 by East to Hedon

Today was one of those “Groundhog Travel-Days”; where you wake up, spend a day travelling, go to sleep, cross the International Date-Line, and you’re back to the same day again… very discombobulating.

We awoke to partially overcast skies… a good-thing as our plan was to have breakfast, finish packing, check out, and spend a last few hours down at one of the pools. Breakfast, as usual, was good; although the clouds rolled in a little and the air began to feel close. We managed to compress, jostle, mash, and otherwise physically cram all of our stuff into our luggage… we started the trip with a backpack and a day-pack each… now, somehow that has grown to include another piece of checked luggage and two more carry-ons. It was a good thing that Cathay Pacific’s checked luggage allowance was old-school generous. With the help of a bellhop and one of their shuttle-trucks, we were able to get everything down to the luggage storage area without herniating anything or any one… our additional checked bag was rather deceiving; it was only a small, non-descript duffle-bag but it was packed to bursting with pounds and pounds of spices and two large stone mortar and pestles.

After storing our gear, the bellhop graciously offered to drive us back up to the pool; an offer that was gratefully accepted. On the short drive, a light rain began to fall… it might have been raining, but it was still around 34 Degrees Celsius (about 93 Degrees Fahrenheit) and steamy-humid.

Infinity Pool; still pretty nice even in a light rain.

Our last couple of hours at the pool. Eron squinting as the sun broke through the clouds.

Contrast in colours; pool-side flowers.

Some of our constant-companions at the pool were a bunch of beautiful Dragonflies. They are a stunning vermillion and they flew in intricate patterns above the water sometimes landing on the edge of the pool to rest.

Vermillion Dragonflies.

Unfortunately, by 1:30 PM, we had to look at getting changed to go to the airport. Luckily for us, The Mandarava was well set up for taking care of “checked-out guests”. The restrooms around the corner from reception are equipped with very nice shower stalls… they even brought fresh bath towels, hand towels, and soap to us. The only downside, and this is not a complaint, is that the restrooms are not air conditioned. It was so humid that as we tried to dry off after the showers; we couldn’t actually towel-off fast enough to keep up with the fresh perspiration! After that, it was the final goodbyes and farewells – especially with the bellhops; they really took good care of us during our stay.

The ride to Phuket International Airport (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phuket_International_Airport) normally takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Although our driver warned us it may take a bit longer as the main highway was being up-graded and therefore we would be driving through Patong City. The drive was uneventful and we arrived at HKT with plenty of time to spare. Check-in was a breeze, as was going through security screening, and we were in the secure passenger area with time to find lunch… this was a problem only so much as in the secure area there are no “sit-down” dining facilities, only a number of fast-food outlets and coffee places. So, there are places to find something quick to eat, just don’t plan on getting a restaurant-type sit-down meal. Right on time (or pretty close, anyhow – “TIT”), we boarded our flight to Hong Kong.

The flight to Hong Kong was about four hours and we landed at just after 11 PM local time. We definitely need to give kudos where kudos are due and HKG (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hong_Kong_Airport) deserves credit for very efficient and smooth handling of transiting passengers. We hit the terminal at just after 11 PM; even with time for a potty-break, we were through security screening and wandering around in a duty-free store near our gate by 11:25 PM! When in Hong Kong, one must pay your tithe to the gods of consumerism… and we did our share – what’s another carry-on… only one more plane ride. We board Cathay Pacific CX888 to Vancouver at just past midnight. So, it’s now April 11, 2014. The flight, even though the Captain warned us about possible turbulence over the North Pacific, was relatively smooth. The flight attendants served us “dinner”, which was surprisingly decent, and people started drifting off to sleep soon afterwards… us included.

I awoke to find that sometime during the night we had crossed the International Date-Line and it was now April 10, 2014… again. I was awake for good so what to do… even in Economy Class, the Cathay Pacific Boeing 777 ER’s have very decent seatback-mounted entertainment centres with a plethora of audio and video choices. However, as I’m known for saying, “I’ve spent a lot of time, energy, and money on getting and mounting ever bigger and better television screens and AV systems, why would I want to watch movies on those itty bitty screens”; usually in reference to tablets, phones, and notebooks but in this case, it also applies to the seatback video screens. I just didn’t feel like watching any of the available movies or TV shows… but, there was also an option for a selection of games. So now, not only am I a blogger, I’m also (as of last evening) the Flt CX888 reigning points-champion of “Solitaire”… yes , you may now bow in reverence… hmmm, a little lower and please hold your applause to a polite roar.

As the waking passengers started to stir, the crew served breakfast. Not quite as tasty as dinner but not bad for airline-food. Shortly after the meal, we were approaching Vancouver International Airport (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vancouver_International_Airport). We touched down just after 9 PM local time after an approximately 11 hour flight. From landing, through customs and immigration, and right through the actual pick-up of luggage at the carousel it was about 20 minutes… and yes, that includes an all-important potty-break. Our friend, Gary was already at YVR to pick us up; from landing to walking in through our own front door was a record 45 minutes! It was a great trip… but home at last!

Some general observations, remarks, and notes about Thailand:

1. Travelling during March and April: it’s hot and humid only gets hotter and muggier towards the summer months. The humidity gets noticeably higher as you go south. North of Bangkok, the air is hazy/smoky from the spring-time burning in the fields – the worst we encountered was in/near Pha Yao in Northern Thailand.

2. Food: although we enjoyed good Thai food throughout our trip, we felt the best was found in and around Chiang Mai; especially when considering the price and quality. In general, there just seemed to be more care and artistry in how the subtleties of flavour and spiciness were approached in the eateries (of all types) we tried in the north. Due to the primarily north-south direction of our travels, it became easy to distinguish regionalities in cuisine – from the Khao Soi (egg noodle) Curry of the north, to the prevalence of seafood dishes as we went south, and the Massaman (Muslim) Curry-variations in the Andaman Sea area.

3. Thai people: in general, some of the friendliest, polite, and most honest people we have ever encountered. In most of the permanent or semi-permanent markets, the vendors didn’t even clear off their tables at the end of the day; they simply covered their wares with a cloth. Due the similarity of colours in some of the denominations of Thai currency, it was easy to hand over a much larger denomination note in mistake – the vendors we dealt with, all chose to point out the error to us instead of taking advantage of the stupid-Farangs.

4. Muslims and Islam: in the areas we travelled through, all major religions seemed to be represented, with the majority being Buddhist or Animalist. However, once we hit the south, starting with Krabi we noticed a sudden shift in religious-leanings. The majority were still Buddhist or Animalist but the very visible minority became the Muslims. We had observed the occasional Mosque in other parts of Thailand but it wasn’t until Krabi that we began hearing the Islamic calls-to-prayer. The numbers of obvious (by way of dress, by facial hair, by omission of pork-items on menus, etc.) Muslims increased noticeably the further south along the Andaman Sea coast we traveled. However, these were not the stereotypical in-your-face radicalized all-unbeliever-westerners-should-die-type Muslims. I was referring to them as Islamic-light but Eron coined the even more descriptive phrase, “Unitarian Muslims”. For the most part, they apparently co-exist quite well with their infidel countrymen and didn’t seem to bat an eye when confronted with scantily-clad or even semi-nude tourist women. Although we have heard that in the extreme south of Thailand, the Muslims are reportedly less prone to peaceful co-existence or tolerance.

5. The islands south of Krabi: the islands of Koh Lanta, Koh Phi Phi, and all smaller islands are definitely seasonal. In fact, during the summer storm season, some islands only have restricted ferry access if at all. Even on Koh Lanta (one of the larger islands), the tourist-season runs from October through late April with most of the facilities, restaurants, and lodging choices closed or operating at much reduced capacity for nearly six months of the year. For those that do make the effort, travel to the islands during the off-season is possible; the areas are very quiet and there are breaks in the weather but generally, the waters are so rough that ocean-swimming is inadvisable.

6. If you are in the market for Thai Celadon (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Celadon) Ceramics or Thai Lacquer-ware (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lacquer_ware), the best examples we found were in the Chiang Mai area. In fact, even in Bangkok, we found few examples of good quality Celadon and going south, there were even less choices (if any). As for the Lacquer-ware; we found examples in most places but the best-quality was to be had in the north. So, if you’re in Chiang Mai and you find Celadon or Lacquer-ware you like, you’ll have to buy it and haul it (or have it shipped).

7. Sukhothai: not much of interest there except for the ruins in the Sukhothai Historic Park (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sukhothai_historic_park). So, look via the internet and find accommodations in Old Sukhothai. That way you’re within walking distance of the park. There are plenty of choices for food and lodging in the old town. A one or two night stay is all that is needed to see the ruins.

8. Exploring north of Chiang Mai: very much worth doing. To get the most out of it, hire a car and knowledgeable local guide. Without Lek, we would not have seen much of what we saw and experienced the north in anywhere near the way we did.

9. Prices: the prices generally rose as we travelled south. An 80 Baht tuk-tuk ride across the city in Chiang Mai morphed into a less than 10 minute 200 Baht ride between our resort and the Karon Beach strip. Likewise, Stir-fried Chicken with cashew nuts were 70 Baht in Chiang Mai but 140-170 Baht in the south.

10. The rudest, most obnoxious people in Thailand: are in general, all tourists. The biggest offenders are the nouveau riche and emergent middle-class from mainland China and Hong Kong. A surprise runner-up in the ugly-tourist sweepstakes were the hordes of Russian tourists, especially as found in Karon Beach. I’m not quite sure whether Russia annexed Karon Beach before or after the Crimea, but it’s done. Most signs at tourist-orientated businesses have Thai, English, and Russian or just Thai and Russian on them. The sheer numbers of Russian tourists in Karon Beach was impressive; almost just as impressive was the volume with which they spoke to each other in the Russian language – you could close your eyes and almost imagine being in a Black Sea resort town. Of course, the French tourists are always in the running but here they are definitely only a possibility for the podium.

11. Coffee: for a country with (at least some) international acclaim for the quality of it’s coffee exports, the state of the coffee served in most establishments in Thailand is… abysmal. The exceptions to this generalization were primarily in Chiang Mai and the coffee-producing regions to the north. The “coffee” served in most restaurants and cafes is, in fact, made from instant-coffee… even many of the establishments in Chiang Mai served-up this sludge. This was very reminiscent of our experiences in Central and East Africa. Similarly, in known coffee-producing areas, the “real-stuff” is reserved for export and (with the rare exception) you got the “powdered-stuff” at the local eateries. This was very much a disappointment to us as we were treated to some of the best coffee we have ever tried during our 2010 travels through Vietnam (see those blogs also on this site). Ironically, Vietnam is not particularly well-known for it’s coffee, but throughout it’s north-south length, we enjoyed great coffee… regardless of whether we were in a fancy city-restaurant or some little road-side café along a deserted stretch of the old Ho Chi Minh Trail.

Posted in Thailand 2014, Travels | Tagged Cathay Pacific Airlines, Karon Beach, Mandarava Resort and Spa, YVR | 1 Comment