East to Hedon

Hoi An – November 30, 2010

Posted on October 24, 2013 by East to Hedon

Our last full day in Hoi An; breakfast, running over to Kimmy’s and Tony’s to pick our clothing orders, and a quick lunch before meeting up with our cooking class. We booked an afternoon class with the Red Bridge Restaurant and Cooking School (http://www.tripadvisor.ca/Attraction_Review-g298082-d1061045-Reviews-Red_Bridge_Restaurant_and_Cooking_School-Hoi_An_Quang_Nam_Province.html). We chose the Red Bridge school because they offered more than a simple cooking class.

Fishing boats tied up in a canal off the Thu Bon River. Old Town, Hoi An.

Old Town from the other side of the canal, Hoi An.

We met up with our guide and the rest of the class at a restaurant in Old Town. From there, we walked through Old Town and into the central market. Our guide was very knowledgeable and was able to answer questions regarding various unfamiliar foodstuffs and other items new and wondrous to western eyes.

Fruit at the central market. Old Town, Hoi An.

Betel-fruit at the central market. Old Town, Hoi An.

It was quiet-time at the central market. Old Town, Hoi An.

It was quiet-time at the central market 02. Old Town, Hoi An.

Nap-wagon. Old Town, Hoi An.

Baskets of food at the central market. Old Town, Hoi An.

Radiant veggies at the central market. Old Town, Hoi An.

Napping with the chickens at the central market. Old Town, Hoi An.

We had a great time strolling through the central market. We bought some simple (but quite ingenious) kitchen gadgets and… of course, spices. Did you know that Chinese 5-Spice and Vietnamese 5-Spice are the, “Same, same but different“? According to one very earnest (and quite convincing) vendor, the Vietnamese version of the spice was “same, same but much better” than the Chinese one – apparently, this generalization was true for all other items as well. True or not, she did manage to sell us quite a load of spices… three years later and we’re still going through them. After finishing our market tour, we walked along the riverfront.

Red tendrils. Old Town, Hoi An.

Fresh from the farms. Old Town, Hoi An.

Waiting for the local ferry. Old Town, Hoi An.

We then boarded our ride up-river to the Red Bridge Restaurant and Cooking School.

Ferry to the Red Bridge Cooking School. Old Town, Hoi An.

River-taxi waiting for business. Old Town, Hoi An.

Coming along-side. Old Town. Hoi An.

Private river-tour on the Thu Bon River, Hoi An.

Our ferry “Captain”. Up-stream of Hoi An.

River traffic up-stream of Hoi An.

Once at the Red Bridge Restaurant and Cooking School, we had a guided tour of their extensive spice and herb gardens:

Touring the herb garden. Up-stream of Hoi An.

We were then ushered into a thatched-roof cooking demonstration kitchen – complete with individualized cooking stations for each member of the class. The class was very light-hearted and the chef-instructor was extremely personable… and everyone seemed to enjoy themselves. We each made (or made a mess of) several traditional local dishes. Then we brought our still-steaming goodies into the restaurant part of the complex. Once we made ourselves comfortable, more food (prepared by the real chefs) was brought out and we had a great time eating and socializing before being ferried back to Old Town.

Roger and Eron at the Red Bridge Restaurant. Up-stream of Hoi An.

Leaving the Red Bridge dock. Up-stream of Hoi An.

Boat-full of happy tourists. Up-stream of Hoi An.

Lights along the Thu Bon River. Up-stream of Hoi An.

That evening, we decided to try the Miss Ly Cafeteria (http://www.tripadvisor.ca/Restaurant_Review-g298082-d1090864-Reviews-Miss_Ly_Cafeteria-Hoi_An_Quang_Nam_Province.html) for a late dinner. This was our second time at Miss Ly’s; we had come in for lunch several days before. What can I say… the food was tasty and the prices were very reasonable.

Dinner at the Miss Ly Restaurant. Old Town, Hoi An.

Dinner at the Miss Ly Cafeteria. Old Town, Hoi An.

After-dinner drinks and cigars at Miss Ly’s. Old Town, Hoi An.

Posted in Vietnam 2010 | Tagged Cigars, Hoi An, Hoi An Central Market, Red Bridge Restaurant | Leave a comment

Hoi An and a Visit to a Nearby Fishing Village – November 29, 2010

Posted on October 23, 2013 by East to Hedon

We were picked up at our hotel in the pre-dawn darkness. We had booked a photography workshop led by an ex-pat Frenchman. The shoot-location was a fishing village on the Thu Bon River outside of Hoi An; this meant getting there early enough to catch the activities.

Taking the ferry to the fishing village, near Hoi An.

About to board the ferry to the fishing village, near Hoi An.

Our river ferry is loaded, near Hoi An.

Fishers in the pre-dawn light, near Hoi An.

Commuters waiting for the ferry to Hoi An.

Rice paddies outside of fishing village, near Hoi An.

Flags in dawn breeze, near Hoi An.

Anchored vessels, fishing village near Hoi An.

Tattered, wind-ripped flag, fishing village near Hoi An.

Wind-blown vessels, fishing village near Hoi An.

Wind-blown vessels 02, fishing village near Hoi An.

Sorting prawns, fishing village near Hoi An.

Fisherman, fishing village near Hoi An.

Wind-blown vessels 03, fishing village near Hoi An.

A traditional round row-boat, fishing village near Hoi An.

Old dock and boats, fishing village near Hoi An.

Using a traditional round row-boat, fishing village near Hoi An.

Part of the fishing village, near Hoi An.

Beach pooch, fishing village near Hoi An.

The town-drunk, fishing village near Hoi An.

Old woman, fishing village near Hoi An.

Old man, fishing village near Hoi An.

Getting ready to roll, fishing village near Hoi An.

Kids, fishing village near Hoi An.

Playing cards, fishing village near Hoi An.

Tough-guy, fishing village near Hoi An.

Net mending, fishing village near Hoi An.

Net mending 02, fishing village near Hoi An.

The net-mender, fishing village near Hoi An.

Serving shrimp-sauce on rice rolls, fishing village near Hoi An.

The market, fishing village near Hoi An.

Meat seller at the market, fishing village near Hoi An.

Shy kids, fishing village near Hoi An.

Elderly woman, fishing village near Hoi An.

Elderly woman 02, fishing village near Hoi An.

Fisher, fishing village near Hoi An.

Biere delivery “truck”, fishing village near Hoi An.

Suspicious kid, fishing village near Hoi An.

Residue from straining Fish Sauce, fishing village near Hoi An.

Fish Sauce straining baskets, fishing village near Hoi An.

Fish Sauce “goop” used as pig-slop, fishing village near Hoi An.

Fish Sauce fermenting casks, fishing village near Hoi An.

Every town has to have a Karaoke Bar, fishing village near Hoi An.

Two shy girls, fishing village near Hoi An.

Local boat-builder, fishing village near Hoi An.

Local boat-builder 02, fishing village near Hoi An.

Another Fisherman, fishing village near Hoi An.

Busy at the dock, fishing village near Hoi An.

Riot of colours, fishing village near Hoi An.

Sorting crabs, fishing village near Hoi An.

More rice paddies surrounding the fishing village, near Hoi An.

Boats in dry-dock, fishing village near Hoi An.

He’s never lonely at lunch-time, fishing village near Hoi An.

The ferry takes us back across to the Hoi An side of the river.

After we got off the ferry, we rode back to Hoi An on bicycles. We took the road (path?) that ran along the Thu Bon River and eventually finished up in Old Town. While the shoot-location was great, our workshop leader was more interested in his own photographic opportunities than actually providing an educational experience. However, just being able to see and photograph this little slice of Vietnamese life was worth the price of admission.

Just a couple of minutes walk from our hotel is the “Café 43” (http://www.tripadvisor.ca/Restaurant_Review-g298082-d1121819-Reviews-Cafe_43-Hoi_An_Quang_Nam_Province.html). This is a family-run, open-air (though covered mostly by tarp) restaurant featuring decent Vietnamese and western cuisine at very affordable prices. The food was good, the service quick and friendly, the prices cheap, and they even welcomed my after-meal cigars… ya gotta love these folks! As we were just finishing lunch, a truck pulled up to deliver a load of the local draft bia. It was light, refreshing… and about 15 cents USD for a 300ml glass mug!

Tapping a fresh keg of local biere, Hoi An.

Tapping a fresh keg of local bia at Café 43, Hoi An.

And just down the street… a full-service barber.

Full-service barber, Hoi An.

Posted in Vietnam 2010 | Tagged Cafe 43, Cigars, fishers, Hoi An | Leave a comment

Hoi An – November 26, 27, and 28, 2010

Posted on October 23, 2013 by East to Hedon

November 26, 2010

We awoke refreshed and looking forward to our extended (one week) stay in Hoi An (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H%E1%BB%99i_An). We stayed in the Phuoc An Hotel (http://phuocanhotel.com/), just a short walk away from Hoi An’s “Old Town” (or “Ancient Town”) – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This was a great place to base our exploration of Hoi An. The staff, as we had come to expect and appreciate, were gracious and extremely helpful. And this hotel offered amenities that aren’t typical for a flash-packer (http://flashpackerhq.com/flashpacker-defined/) establishment. Of course they included breakfast and Wi-Fi, but they also had a small pool and hot-tub as well as a full restaurant. After breakfast, we set out to do a little exploring on foot.

The ubiquitous Honda Super Cub 50, Hoi An.

Intricate wrought-iron work, Hoi An.

Old Town area is sometimes close to vehicular traffic, Hoi An.

Old Town area is sometimes closed to vehicular traffic, Hoi An.

Waiting for tourists. Old Town, Hoi An.

Joss coils burn for 24 hours to carry the message of the attached wish, Hoi An.

November 27, 2010

This morning we went in search of custom tailors. In the case of Hoi An; it was actually not the lack of tailors that was the problem, it was the over-whelming number that were available. This little seaside town has over one thousand four hundred (1400) tailor shops… that’s not individual tailors, that’s actual shops! Luckily, Eron had already begun our search while we were still at home and planning this trip. She had whittled down the list to a small number of candidates. So, off we went. After a few hours of going back and forth (good thing Hoi An is a small town!), we settled on two tailor shops; “Kimmy Custom Tailor” (http://kimmytailor.com/) and “Tony the Tailor” (http://www.tripadvisor.ca/Attraction_Review-g298082-d3462947-Reviews-Tony_The_Tailor-Hoi_An_Quang_Nam_Province.html).

Tony the Tailor, Hoi An.

We had read reviews commenting on “poor quality” and other dire warnings regarding the tailoring industry in Hoi An. The unprepared tourist most certainly can, and probably does, get taken… we saw an number of shops we would not even enter, never mind do business with. However, we wonder if the quality-issues are more often the result of the customers’ own rushed schedules and expectations of unrealistically quick turnaround times. While most of Hoi An’s tailors can whip-up a custom suit for you in a day, it will definitely not look as good on you as a suit that has been custom-fitted multiple times. Kimmy Custom Tailor made several suits, several pairs of trousers, several dresses, and wool overcoats for each of us. Meanwhile, Tony the Tailor made clones of my favorite Guayabera shirt, casual resort shirts, and even my belated birthday present – an authentic old-school custom-tailored silk Smoking Jacket. The process for the suits, dresses, and dress trousers is quite involved; picking the style, choosing the various materials, and being measured. But when we went back to Kimmy’s the next morning and the items were already made! Then came the fittings; the items were refitted on us on three consecutive mornings and ready for pick-up the following morning. The process at Tony’s was similar but due to the more casual nature of the items; they only needed two fittings. We still marvel at the quality of the materials and workmanship. The tailors of Hoi An can do good work… they just need to be allowed the time to do it.

After a relaxed lunch… time for more exploring.

Need a freezer moved? Old Town, Hoi An.

Two-wheelers rule in Old Town, Hoi An.

Beautiful wood railing in Old Town, Hoi An.

November 28, 2010

Breakfast, a quick visit to the tailors for a fitting, and then… wandering through Hoi An.

Chinese calligraphy artist. Old Town, Hoi An.

Temple entrance. Old Town, Hoi An.

Chaotic dragon sculpture. Old Town, Hoi An.

Chaotic dragon sculpture 02. Old Town, Hoi An.

Door to a shrine. Old Town, Hoi An.

24 hour joss coils. Old Town, Hoi An.

24 hour joss coils 02. Old Town, Hoi An.

Doorways. Old Town, Hoi An.

Multi-headed dragon. Old Town, Hoi An.

Red garden bridge. Old Town, Hoi An.

Multi-headed dragon detail. Old Town, Hoi An.

Multi-headed dragon detail 02. Old Town, Hoi An.

Lion. Old Town, Hoi An.

Japanese Bridge. Old Town, Hoi An.

Potted Royal Palms. Old Town, Hoi An.

Hidden courtyards in Old Town, Hoi An.

Pedestrian Bridge over Thu Bon River canal. Old Town, Hoi An.

Fishing boats. Old Town, Hoi An.

Tied up fishing boats. Old Town, Hoi An.

Tied up fishing boats 02. Old Town, Hoi An.

Restaurant on the Thu Bon River. Old Town, Hoi An.

Nap-time. Old Town, Hoi An.

Tourist restaurants along the Thu Bon River. Old Town, Hoi An.

Old ship’s wheel. Old Town, Hoi An.

Small sampans on the Thu Bon River. Old Town, Hoi An.

Small sampan on the Thu Bon River. Old Town, Hoi An.

Old woman on a sampan. Old Town, Hoi An.

Vessels for hire. Old Town, Hoi An.

Lanterns. Old Town, Hoi An.

All kinds of eggs at the central market, Hoi An.

All kinds of eggs at the central market 02, Hoi An.

Under the awning at the central market, Hoi An.

Masks carved from roots. Central market, Hoi An.

Ducks and chickens for sale. Central market, Hoi An.

Afternoon rest-time at the central market, Hoi An.

King of the Hill, Hoi An.

Munchkin-Monk. Hoi An.

Quan Yin statue, Hoi An.

Phoenix – Hoi An.

Marble Lion, Hoi An.

Dragon relief on urn, Hoi An.

Fish fountain, Hoi An.

Entrance to a Clan Meeting-House. Hoi An.

Stone Lion, Hoi An.

Bronze relief of a horse, Hoi An.

Entrance to another shrine, Hoi An.

Details on shrine exterior, Hoi An.

Details on shrine exterior 02, Hoi An.

Posted in Vietnam 2010 | Tagged Hoi An, Hoi An tailors, Old Town, Phuoc An Hotel | Leave a comment

Central Highlands, My Son, and then on to Hoi An – November 25, 2010

Posted on October 6, 2013 by East to Hedon

We had breakfast at the same restaurant we went to for dinner. It was there that we discovered that the French Colonials had left the Vietnamese people gifts other than venereal disease and the Guillotine… the secret of baking baguettes. The owner of the restaurant just happened to also have a bakery next door. This bakery used a wood-fired oven to bake traditional baguettes… crunchy-crusted, melt-in-your-mouth centred, hot from the oven – simply the best baguettes we have EVER had! They were so good, they didn’t even need butter or jam – you just ate them plain so that you could savour every single incredible morsel. Add a couple of cups of fresh Vietnamese Coffee and… oh man, I still have dreams about that breakfast….

Fresh baguettes and Vietnamese Coffee for breakfast, Prao.

Wood-fired baguette oven, Prao.

Baguette oven and owner of the bakery, Prao.

Ready to become the world’s best baguettes, Prao.

Our dinner and breakfast restaurant, Prao.

After breakfast, we left Prao behind…

“Farm vehicle”, Prao.

Leaving Prao behind.

A nice warm road to lay on, Central Highlands.

Mist over the valleys, Central Highlands.

Another butt-break, Central Highlands.

Over-grown wires, Central Highlands.

Double-happiness, Central Highlands.

Mountains and valleys as far as the eye can see, Central Highlands.

Boy at a roadside café, Central Highlands.

As we were coming down off the Central Highlands, our weather-luck finally ran out – it started to rain… then it poured; as it only can in the tropics.

Time to put on the rain-gear, Central Highlands.

Rained-on but still happy, Central Highlands.

Waiting out the downpour at a roadside café, Central Highlands.

Duc and Roger at the roadside café, Central Highlands.

Eron and Mr. Tu at the roadside café, Central Highlands.

Lady at the roadside café, Central Highlands.

More tourists taking refuge from the rain, Central Highlands.

Yet another tour group rides in, Central Highlands.

The nice thing about tropical rain-storms is that they usually don’t last very long. This one was no exception and started to peter-out within a hour. So, off into the lightening drizzle we rode. Then we came to a river crossing…

Approaching the river-ferry, Central Highlands.

Checking out the local river-ferry, Central Highlands.

Mr. Tu and Duc riding the bikes onto the river-ferry, Central Highlands.

Crossing the river, Central Highlands.

Sampan on the river, Central Highlands.

A dog is being brought to market, Central Highlands.

Mr. Tu rides off the river-ferry, Central Highlands.

Then Duc rides off, Central Highlands.

If you’re thinking, “Well, that didn’t look too bad.” I walked off the river-ferry right afterwards and my foot broke through the boards making up the “dock” and I almost ended up in the river.

The ferry-crossing route, Central Highlands.

Looking back towards the ferry “dock”, Central Highlands.

Now we’re out of the Central Highlands and on our way to My Son.

Eron’s view from the lead bike, approaching My Son.

Water buffalo and Egrets, approaching My Son.

Riding through the rice paddies, approaching My Son.

Riding through the rice paddies 02, approaching My Son.

3km to My Son

We’ve reached the world cultural heritage site, My Son (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%E1%BB%B9_S%C6%A1n). Unlike the bustling Angkor Wat complex in neighbouring Cambodia, My Son is eerily subdued. Eron and I spent hours wandering through the site, including walking in and out of various buildings, and we only encountered less than a dozen people – that’s including tourists AND their guides. We were told to feel free to explore as we pleased… the only warning was that we were not to walk into the bush. According to the staff; during the American War, both sides honoured the historical significance of the site and neither side bombed or shelled it. However, the areas immediately adjacent to My Son were heavily booby-trapped with military-grade mines and various Improvised Explosive Devices (IED’s). Since the end of the war, the site itself has been cleared of all explosive ordinance but the areas just outside the site have not. This was one tourist attraction where you used the official toilet facilities… definitely no running out into the bush to use the “VC Toilet”.

First view of the My Son ruins.

My Son ruins.

My Son ruins 02.

My Son ruins 03.

My Son ruins 04.

My Son ruins 05.

My Son ruins 06.

My Son ruins 07.

My Son ruins 08.

My Son ruins 09.

My Son ruins 10.

My Son ruins 11.

My Son ruins 12.

My Son ruins 13.

My Son ruins 14.

My Son ruins 15.

My Son ruins 16.

My Son ruins 17.

My Son ruins 18.

My Son ruins 19.

My Son ruins 20.

My Son ruins 21.

My Son ruins 22.

My Son ruins 23.

My Son ruins 24.

My Son ruins 25.

My Son ruins 26.

My Son ruins 27.

My Son ruins 28.

My Son ruins 29.

My Son ruins 30.

My Son ruins 31.

Leaving My Son – approaching take-off speed.

On the way to Hoi An, we stopped off at a small family-run “factory” that makes edible rice-paper.

Making rice paper, Quang Nam Prov.

Making rice paper 02, Quang Nam Prov.

Making rice paper 03, Quang Nam Prov.

Making rice paper 04, Quang Nam Prov.

Preparing a rice paper snack, Quang Nam Prov.

Serving a rice paper snack, Quang Nam Prov.

Rice paper snack, Quang Nam Prov.

Eron enjoying a rice paper snack, Quang Nam Prov.

Eron and fancy pigeons, Quang Nam Prov.

Mr. Tu and fancy pigeons, Quang Nam Prov.

Mr. Tu and a fancy pigeon, Quang Nam Prov.

Eron making rice paper, Quang Nam Prov.

Shy farm-puppy, Quang Nam Prov.

Sure likes tasty fingers though, Quang Nam Prov.

Also likes yummy watches, Quang Nam Prov.

Mill-stone to make rice flour, Quang Nam Prov.

Mill-stone to make rice flour 02, Quang Nam Prov.

Sun-drying the edible rice paper, Quang Nam Prov.

Eron’s lil’ friend, Quang Nam Prov.

On the road again, approaching Hoi An.

Cruisin’, approaching Hoi An.

Cruisin’ 02, approaching Hoi An.

Duc, Eron, and Mr. Tu in front of our hotel in Hoi An.

Setting sun from our hotel, Hoi An.

Night view from our hotel balcony, Hoi An.

Night view from our hotel balcony 02, Hoi An.

In case you’ve never seen $14,000,000 sitting on a bed…

14,000,000 VND

Posted in Vietnam 2010 | Tagged Central Highlands, Hoi An, My Son, Prao, rice paper making | Leave a comment

Hue to Prao, Central Highlands – November 24, 2010

Posted on October 6, 2013 by East to Hedon

This morning saw Eron and I leaving Hue on our much-anticipated over-night motorcycle tour of Vietnam’s Central Highlands. We contracted Hue Easyrider Motorbike Discovery Tours (http://www.tripadvisor.ca/Attraction_Review-g293926-d1776805-Reviews-Hue_Easy_Rider_Private_Day_Tours-Hue_Thua_Thien_Hue_Province.html) for this portion of our trip. Mr. Tu (the owner) and Duc were fantastic guides and really made our trip through the Central Highlands. They were very patient with us needing to “just get that shot” and seemed to know exactly when to pull over for a “butt-break”. We felt entirely comfortable during this tour… even when travelling through areas so remote and isolated that even our guides didn’t speak the local language or dialect. We can’t recommend Mr. Tu and his company enough; the motorcycle tour was truly one of the most memorable parts of a month filled with wonderful experiences and memories.

Over two days, we travelled through the Central Highlands (to within 4 km of Laos), over more than 170 km of a “highway” that was constructed over the historic path of the infamous Ho Chi Minh Trail (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ho_Chi_Minh_trail), spent a night in Prao (a farming town), visited the ancient ruins at My Son (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%E1%BB%B9_S%C6%A1n), and finally ended up in the historic port town of Hoi An on the central coast.

Hue Easyriders

Loading up the 110cc Honda cruiser bikes, Hue.

And we’re on our way!

We’re not the only ones doubling, Hue.

Heading out of Hue.

Duc taking a call, outside Hue.

Mr. Tu helping Eron across the slippery rocks near Blood Falls.

“Blood Falls” is what the locals have nicknamed this small waterfall in the Central Highlands. It is downstream from the site of a large battle in the American War… the locals say that the waters turned red with the blood of the dead and dying during and after the battle. Hence, they have called it Blood Falls since that day.

Blood Falls, Central Highlands.

Blood Falls 02, Central Highlands.

Not exactly a super-highway, Central Highlands.

Kinda narrow, Central Highlands.

Butt-break, Central Highlands.

River valley, Central Highlands.

Valley farms, Central Highlands.

Light in the valley, Central Highlands.

Trees over the valley, Central Highlands.

Apparently, any dirt is good dirt – Central Highlands.

It seems we have been riding along the route of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, Central Highlands.

Do you want to go first?

Soft, narrow, and with only a 500ft drop-off…, Central Highlands.

Just one of the many slides and wash-outs along the route, Central Highlands.

Roadside waterfall, Central Highlands.

Road got a little muddy… AGAIN! Central Highlands.

Road clings to the edge of the mountains, Central Highlands.

Yet another slide, Central Highlands.

Duc tells us he has family in this village, Central Highlands.

Stilt-houses in a Mountain-people hamlet, Central Highlands.

Cinnamon bark drying on the side of the road, Central Highlands.

After a long day of riding, we roll into the farming town of Prao. This is a town of about 700 located in the Central Highlands. It’s the only town of any size for hours in either direction on the highway. We stayed overnight in the town’s one and only hotel. Our room had a balcony-view of the main drag, a private bathroom complete with a refreshing cold-water only shower, a double bed, in-room TV with about 2 1/2 channels, and complimentary rat droppings – it was the best accommodations for miles…

Our hotel room in Prao, Central Highlands.

Balcony outside our hotel room, Prao.

(l-r) Duc and Mr. Tu in front of our hotel, Prao.

Inside parking for our motorcycles at our hotel, Prao.

After checking in and relaxing for a bit, the four of us headed off to dinner. Mr. Tu had suggested a restaurant that was only a 10 minute walk away. It doesn’t get any more local than this place! Like everything else in Prao, the restaurant looked like it was just one strong wind-gust from being knocked over, but it was full of locals… and the food smelled great. We ordered some of the local beer, had appies, enjoyed a multi-course main meal, and (of course) ordered more beer… Holy Crap! For skinny little guy, Mr. Tu sure could pack away the beer. The only real problem I had with the place was those annoying little red plastic “kids’ chairs” that seem to be synonymous with local Vietnamese dining. They may be perfectly comfy for “Mr. Viet-Joe” who is 5’2″ and 110lbs soakin’ wet with a pocketful of rocks; I am the proud owner 200+lbs of butt so do you get the picture? Once I got seated, it usually took two of the little guys along with a water buffalo to get me the hell out….

Biere LaRue – Prao, Central Highlands.

Since damn-near everyone else in the place was smoking cigarettes, I didn’t even think twice about lighting up an after-dinner stogie… good thing it was a long one; it quickly became the “communal-stogie” as everyone had to try it! It was a fantastic evening and it showcased how cigars really can help transcend language and cultural barriers.

After-dinner cigar and drinks, Prao.

My cigar became community-property in the restaurant, Prao.

My cigar quickly became community-property in the restaurant, Prao.

When we got the tab for the evening, both Eron and I had to do a double-take and use all our fingers and toes to try to make the conversion between VND and USD. We both did the calculations several times before coming to the same incredible conclusion… the entire evening just cost us a mind-blowing $7.50 USD! Less than the cost of the cigar we shared after dinner.

Eron and her new friend, Prao.

Posted in Vietnam 2010 | Tagged Blood Falls, Central Highlands, Cigars, Ho Chi Minh Trail, Hue Easyriders, Prao | 3 Comments

Quang Tri Province and the former DMZ – November 23, 2010

Posted on October 5, 2013 by East to Hedon

Today, we took a tour through Quang Tri Province; stopping at some historic battle sites that were significant during the American War.

Known to the US forces as, “the Rockpile” (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Rockpile). To the Vietnamese, this is Thon Khe Tri or “Battle Mountain”.

Battle Mountain, Quang Tri Province.

Roadside monument, Quang Tri Prov.

Next on the tour was, the site of the old US Marine Corps Combat Base at Khe Sanh (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Khe_Sanh).

Khe Sanh Combat Base, Quang Tri Prov.

Khe Sahn - area surrounding the old US Marine base is now a coffee-growing region.

Khe Sanh – area surrounding the old US Marine combat base is now a coffee-growing region.

Khe Sahn - the ever-present chickens and roosters.

Khe Sanh – the ever-present chickens and roosters.

The museum at the Khe Sanh Combat Base.

The museum at Khe Sanh Combat Base 02.

Restored Marine bunker at the Khe Sanh Combat Base.

Display of US aerial bombs (without their tailfins) at Khe Sanh Combat Base.

Khe Sanh Combat Base Monument.

Patriotic wood-carving in the Khe Sahn Museum.

Patriotic wood-carving in the Khe Sanh Combat Base Museum.

Map of the Khe Sanh battle area.

Khe Sanh Combat Base Museum display.

Map of the Khe Sanh area.

We then travelled north into the old “Demilitarized Zone” (DMZ) that was at one time the buffer between North and South Vietnam (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vietnamese_Demilitarized_Zone).

Monument honouring women wireless operators during the American War, Quan Tri Prov.

Monument honouring women wireless operators during the American War, Quang Tri Prov.

The Hien Luong Bridge (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hien_Luong_Bridge) over the Ben Hai River, former DMZ:

The Hien Luong Bridge crossing the Ben Hai River, South-North DMZ.

Monument at the Hien Luong Bridge.

We eventually drove to the Vinh Moc Tunnels (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vinh_Moc_tunnels). These tunnels were dug by hand over several stages starting in 1966. They were dug as much as 30 metres deep and housed about 60 families; as many as 17 children were born inside the tunnels.

Trail to the Vinh Moc Tunnels.

Ventilation shaft for the Vinh Moc Tunnels.

Air raid shelter entrance, Vin Moc Tunnels.

Air raid shelter entrance, Vinh Moc Tunnels.

Remnants of crater from a US aerial bomb, Vinh Moc Tunnels.

Communication trenches, Vinh Moc Tunnels.

Access point, Vinh Moc Tunnels.

Another US aerial bomb crater remnant, Vinh Moc Tunnels.

Vinh Moc Tunnels Museum.

Anti-aircraft sight on a 12.7mm HMG, Vinh Moc Tunnels Museum.

Entrance to the Vinh Moc Tunnels.

In we go, Vinh Moc Tunnels.

Not much room, Vinh Moc Tunnels.

All dug by hand, Vinh Moc Tunnels.

Accommodations for a family of 4, Vinh Moc Tunnels.

Accommodations for a family, Vinh Moc Tunnels.

Subterranean bomb shelter, Vinh Moc Tunnels.

A rare wider section, Vinh Moc Tunnels.

Tiny exit onto the shoreline, Vinh Moc Tunnels.

At night, the villagers would go fishing for provide protein, Vinh Moc Tunnels.

At night, the villagers would go fishing to provide protein, Vinh Moc Tunnels.

One of the approximately 17 children actually born in the tunnel complex, Vinh Moc Tunnels.

Posted in Vietnam 2010 | Tagged DMZ, Hien Luong Bridge, Khe Sanh, Quang Tri Province, Vinh Moc Tunnels | Leave a comment

Hue – November 22, 2010

Posted on October 5, 2013 by East to Hedon

After a good night’s sleep, we started the day off with Pho for breakfast:

Roger’s gone native – Pho for breakfast, Hue.

And then explored the historic Citadel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imperial_City,_Hu%E1%BA%BF); the Imperial City and former capital of Vietnam. It was the site of savage fighting during the Tet Offensive of 1968.

Moat surrounding the Citadel.

Main gate into the Citadel, Hue.

Tet Offensive bullet damage on the main gate, the Citadel.

Koi Pond, the Citadel.

Internal gateway, the Citadel.

Dragon detail on roof, the Citadel.

Pillar detail, the Citadel.

Window detail, the Citadel.

Bankai at the Citadel.

Reflecting urn, the Citadel.

Ancient gateway, the Citadel.

Covered walkway, the Citadel.

The Emperor’s Writing Pavilion, the Citadel.

The flag, the Citadel.

Ancient path, the Citadel.

Hidden treasures, the Citadel.

Hidden treasures 02, the Citadel.

The Postern Gate, the Citadel.

The flag 02, the Citadel.

The Postern Gate 02, the Citadel.

A series of gates, the Citadel.

Roof rain-sluice detail, the Citadel.

Dragon detail, the Citadel.

Secondary gate. the Citadel.

Secondary gate 02, the Citadel.

Bronze urn detail, the Citadel.

A quick lunch and then more exploring in Hue:

Armoire-mover, Hue.

Wood-fired oven at bread bakery, Hue.

Joss Stick factory, Hue.

Joss Sticks for sale, Hue.

Motorcycle repair shop, Hue.

Police motorcycle at repair shop, Hue.

Measuring paint pigments, Hue.

Citadel Moat on town-side, Hue.

Citadel Moat on town-side 02, Hue.

Construction support columns, Hue.

“Disco Quan Yin”, Hue.

“Disco Buddha”, Hue.

Chinese traditional medicine apothecary shop, Hue.

Creepy-kid manikins, Hue.

That evening, we splurged and had a buffet dinner at the Imperial Hotel (http://www.tripadvisor.ca/Hotel_Review-g293926-d614747-Reviews-Imperial_Hotel-Hue_Thua_Thien_Hue_Province.html). But the highlight of the evening was the rooftop Panorama Bar. Sitting in the warm tropical air, relaxing with an after-dinner drink, and smoking a cigar… what a perfect way to bring a busy day to a satisfying end.

Cigars in the Panorama Bar of the Imperial Hotel, Hue.

The view north across the Perfume River, roof of the Imperial Hotel, Hue.

The view to the Southeast from the roof of the Imperial Hotel, Hue.

The view to the west from the roof of the Imperial Hotel, Hue.

Posted in Vietnam 2010 | Tagged Cigars, Citadel, Hue, Imperial Hotel | Leave a comment

Hue – November 21, 2013

Posted on October 5, 2013 by East to Hedon

We got into the Hue train station at about 8AM. Got checked into our hotel and spent the rest of the afternoon wandering about in central market area of Hue.

Cigarettes and Booze for Buddha at the Waterland Hotel, Hue.

Vietnamese roadside-assistance?

We were in Hue so, we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to explore the Dong Ba Market (http://www.vietnamtourism.org.vn/travel-guide/destination-in-vietnam/thua-thien-hue/dong-ba-market-a-symbol-of-hue%E2%80%99s-culture.html):

Outside the Dong Ba Market.

Gingers for sale at the Hue Central Market.

Gingers for sale at the Dong Ba Market.

Banana delivery at the Hue Central Market.

Banana delivery at the Dong Ba Market.

Inside the main building at the Hue Central Market.

Inside the main building at the Dong Ba Market.

In front of the main building, Hue Central Market.

In front of the main building, Dong Ba Market.

Wood-fired steamed bun street-food cart, Hue.

Sampans on the Perfume River, Hue.

Patriotic sign, Hue.

Just chilling out, Hue.

Sun setting over the Perfume River, Hue.

Posted in Vietnam 2010 | Tagged Dong Ba Market, Hue, Perfume River | 2 Comments

Hanoi – November 19 and 20, 2010

Posted on October 5, 2013 by East to Hedon

November 19, 2010

Today, we did the whole tourist-thing and spent the day wandering from site to site in Hanoi.

First, we visited the Ho Chi Minh Museum (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ho_Chi_Minh_Museum):

Ho Chi Minh Museum

Next, was the One Pillar Pagoda (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/One_Pillar_Pagoda):

One Pillar Pagoda

Then, it was on to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum (http://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ho_Chi_Minh_Mausoleum). Our timing was lucky; we got there just in time for the changing-of-the-guard ceremony.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

Changing-of-the-guard Ceremony at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum.

Of course we couldn’t go too long without another Vietnamese Coffee…

Vietnamese Coffees with a view of Hoan Kiem Lake.

Now, thoroughly refreshed, it was on to the Temple of Literature (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temple_of_Literature,_Hanoi):

Shrine at the Temple of Literature.

Incense coil at Shrine.

Another Shrine at the Temple of Literature.

Gateway at the Temple of Literature.

Inscribed Stones at the Temple of Literature.

Wandering through parts of the city…

Homes close to the tracks.

More homes close to the tracks.

Gold Malt microbrewery.

Next, we came to that Hanoi must-visit; the Maison Centrale – the Hoa Lo Prison… more infamously known as, the Hanoi Hilton (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H%E1%BB%8Fa_L%C3%B2_Prison).

Outside the walls of the infamous Hanoi Hilton.

Main entrance to the Hanoi Hilton.

Hanoi Hilton – Hoa Lo Prison, Hanoi.

All that remains of the Hanoi Hilton.

Glass shard-topped walls at the Hanoi Hilton.

A little left-over from the French Colonial-times.

Finally, our tourist-day comes to an end. As we head back to our hotel and then dinner… dusk comes, but the pace of life in Hanoi never seems to slacken.

The pace of Hanoi-life.

November 20, 2010

Per usual, this morning we were awakened by the “dulcet-toned” voice of the woman Eron and I nicknamed, Hanoi Helen. She obviously works for the Ministry of Extolling Workers’ Virtues (or whatever…) and her voice came blasting out of speakers mounted on telephone poles early every morning. She would spend about 10 minutes pumping up the worker-masses for another day of toiling for the betterment of the state accompanied by cheesy patriotic back-ground music… it was surreal – something straight out of old communist propaganda films…

One of Hanoi Helen’s many speakers.

Morning view of Hang Manh Street, Hanoi

Another look at Hang Manh Street, Hanoi.

Breakfast-time on Hang Manh Street, Hanoi.

Setting up for the day.

We spent the morning wandering about…

Can you remember where you parked?

Business happens everywhere in Hanoi.

One of many Christmas-themed stores we encountered.

And of course, almost everywhere we’ve been in our travels, we find at least one of these…

Finnegan’s Irish Pub, Hanoi.

In the afternoon, we made the trek over to the Vietnam Military History Museum (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vietnam_Military_History_Museum):

Entrance to the Vietnam Military History Museum, Hanoi.

Part of the old fortifications at the Army Museum.

Part of the old fortifications at the Vietnam Military History Museum.

Macabre sculpture made of parts from downed US aircraft.

The main VC “truck” – a payload of over 350 kg.

Part of a downed US B-52.

After an early dinner, we check out of our hotel and head south for the next destination in our journey; the city of Hue. This involved an overnight trip (incarceration?) on the “Gulag Train”. This was in an old-school Soviet-style luxury train car. It was decorated in various shades of scuffed stainless steel, institutional green, and (of course) Soviet-gray. However, due to it being a luxury tourist-car; our train car did feature air-conditioning. Unfortunately, the air-conditioner cooled the air WITHOUT dehumidifying it at all! So, for the next 10 hours or so, we sat in our sleeper compartment surrounded by cool, clammy air – about 18 degrees Celsius with a humidity of over 95%. Blech! I still get the chills thinking about it now.

At the Train Station, Hanoi.

Soviet-style luxury train sleeper compartment.

Soviet-style luxury train.

Posted in Vietnam 2010 | Tagged Army Museum, Hanoi, Hanoi Hilton, Hanoi to Hue train, Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Ho Chi Minh Museum, Hoan Kiem Lake, One Pillar Pagoda, Temple of Literature | Leave a comment

Hanoi plus Bat Trang and Van Phuc – November 18, 2010

Posted on September 30, 2013 by East to Hedon

We started the morning off with breakfast at our hotel; beef Pho and Vietnamese coffee. The breakfast was even included – a clean room with a queen-sized bed, air conditioning, in-room satellite TV, a private bathroom, Wi-Fi, lobby computers, and the afore-mentioned breakfast… all for something around $22.50 USD a night for the both of us. Ya gotta love it!

Alley fronting our hotel.

After breakfast, we had a leisurely stroll through the neighbourhood to meet up with our local guide: Quan.

Street vendor selling meats.

Street vendor’s basket of meats.

Scooters and more scooters.

Flowers fresh from the farm.

At least the kid’s got a brain-bucket on.

We meet up with Quan and it’s off to Bat Trang (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/B%C3%A1t_Tr%C3%A0ng), a village located approximately 13 km from central Hanoi. Nicknamed, “Ceramics City”, it is known for it’s ceramics factories and, in particular, Bat Trang Porcelain (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/B%C3%A1t_Tr%C3%A0ng_Porcelain).

To get to Bat Trang, you must drive there….

On the main drag of Bat Trang.

A Bat Trang delivery-bike.

More Bat Trang delivery vehicles.

Dragon vases.

Local propane depot.

Vietnamese fire hydrant.

Watching the world go by.

Museum wall.

Bulk materials at a ceramics factory.

Lily pond in Bat Trang.

Vase delivery, Bat Trang-style.

The Bat Trang ceramics market.

Sugar cane delivery.

We actually ended up custom-ordering a big set of dinner-services, serving platters, and soup tureens in a Celadon (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Celadon) finish from a ceramics factory in Bat Trang. Luckily, we didn’t have to lug it home; it would be shipped by sea.

Next, it was on to Van Phuc (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V%E1%BA%A1n_Ph%C3%BAc_silk_village), otherwise known as, the “Silk Village”. It is the best known silk village in Vietnam and is located approximately 8 km south-west of Hanoi.

Off to Van Phuc.

In Van Phuc, we had lunch at a restaurant specializing in fried rice – Quan’s fav! I gotta admit, it was pretty good… not as good as mine, but pretty good.