July 5: Diani Beach, Kenya

At breakfast: we were seated by the hostess who asked if we would like coffee. We both asked for coffee with milk (hot milk, the African way). We’re still getting our coffee with the last bites of our breakfast… BAM!

At the pool: the pool deck had a few people on it… still had a good choice of loungers.

At the pool: the pool-guy (can’t think of him as a “pool-boy”) would still lean against the poolside bar all day long rather than earn tips… BAM!

Poolside bar – Coconut Willy’s: the bartender still just stands behind the bar all day long… BAM!

Poolside bar: they run out of bottled sparkling water. We’ve been ordering one to two large bottles of this every day but today they’re out. Instead of sending  one of their (Jacaranda Resort) cabs to drive 5 minutes into the town of Diani Beach to pick up a case or two of the water from a supermarket, they’re just “out”… BAM!

Lunch on pool deck: no luck with anyone offering menus on the deck today. Again, Eron had to go find a waiter to ask for one… BAM!

Dinner service: we’ve figured out one of the reasons why the service is so unpredictable… none of the servers have table assignments. Even though there may only be a dozen or so tables occupied by guests and a similar number of serving staff – no one knows who is serving who, what is or has been served, or who needs what. Several servers will approach in turn to ask us for our drink order even though the first server already took our order. Then, ten or fifteen minutes later, a different befuddled server will come into the dining room carrying a tray filled with drinks… the problem is he never took the orders and doesn’t know who gets what beverage. The guests come up to him and claim their drink if they can see it on the tray… BAM!

Moon and palm tree.

Grounds: the huge African Millipedes are still everywhere. They’re still very creepy… alien-creepy. Eron still doesn’t buy into Roger’s alien-origin theory… Roger keeps saying, you come up with a more reasonable explanation for Baobabs, eggplants, and these milli-creepy-things.

Evening activity: guess what… its disco night again! Surprise!… there’s not one person on the dance floor… BAM!

Posted in Africa 2012, Food and Drink | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

July 4: Diani Beach, Kenya

Diani Beach

At breakfast: we were seated by the hostess who asked if we would like coffee. We both asked for coffee with milk (hot milk, the African way). We’re back to getting our coffee with the last bites of our breakfast… BAM!

At the pool: the pool deck had a few people on it… still had a good choice of loungers.

At the pool: the pool-guy (can’t think of him as a “pool-boy”) would still lean against the poolside bar all day long rather than earn tips… BAM!

Poolside bar – Coconut Willy’s: the bartender still just stands behind the bar all day long… BAM!

Resort management: over the past few days we have watched an assortment of hotel management-types parading through the resort. Some are identified by name-tag as being senior management at this resort, others are just obviously “suits” in the Jacaranda hierarchy. They come around, see what their staff are doing (or in the case of the poolside personnel, not doing), take notes, and even talk to their staff. But nothing changes; they must see the inefficiencies, the problems, and the out-right laziness… yet they choose to do nothing about it. By their collective inaction, we must conclude that the management must be either totally incompetent themselves or, by condoning the status quo, they are promoting this as their acceptable standard. In either case, every single one of the Jacaranda management team at this resort should be terminated; they are the stewards and standard-bearers in this resort’s slow inexhorable decline into failure… BAM! BAM! BAM! BAM! (*automatic gun-fire*)

Lunch on pool deck: no luck with anyone offering menus on the deck today. Again, Eron had to go find a waiter to ask for one… BAM!

Low tide on Diani Beach.

Grounds: the huge African Millipedes are still everywhere. They’re still very creepy… alien-creepy. We’re starting to develop a theory about their origins. We’re seeing a relationship between them and all those Baobab trees on the grounds. Eron has some reservations but Roger is thinking that the Baobabs are, in fact, alien and that the only explanation for the existence of Eggplants on Earth is that they are, in fact, big creepy purple alien seed pods carried to our planet by the Baobabs. And, of course, the giant Millipede-things were carried in these seed pods….

In-coming tide on Diani Beach.

Evening activity: guess what… its disco night again! The DJ is playing African hip-hop again and, surprise!… there’s not one person on the dance floor… BAM!

Posted in Africa 2012, Food and Drink | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

July 3: Diani Beach, Kenya

Early morning light on Diani Beach.

At breakfast: we were seated by the hostess who asked if we would like coffee. We both asked for coffee with milk (hot milk, the African way). We served ourselves at the buffet, ordered and had an omelet cooked, and arrived back at our table to find our cups of coffee… great! Well, sort of… there’s no sugar or hot milk. By the time we had almost finished our breakfast, Hamill Corp couldn’t stand it any longer and went to the waiter’s serving station to get hot milk; another waiter delivered sugar to our table just as Eron got back… BAM!

Waiting out a morning shower on our balcony.

At the pool: the pool deck was still deserted… good for us as we again had our choice of loungers.

At the pool: the pool-guy (can’t think of him as a “pool-boy”) would still lean against the poolside bar all day long rather than earn tips… BAM!

Poolside bar – Coconut Willy’s: the bartender still just stands behind the bar all day long… BAM!

Main cashier: Eron went to the main cashier’s counter to get change for a 1000 Kenyan Schilling note (approximately $12 USD) in order to have small bills to tip the deserving staff members. She was told they didn’t have any change and to come back in the afternoon. Note: Eron was asking for change for a common local currency bill – she wasn’t asking them to exchange large denomination foreign currency… BAM!

Lunch on pool deck: no luck with anyone offering menus on the deck today. Again, Eron had to go find a waiter to ask for one… BAM!

Okay blanket, doesn’t quite fit the bed….

Main cashier: Eron returned to the cashier’s counter late in the afternoon to ask if they could change the 1000 Kenyan Schilling note. The woman was no longer behind the counter but the new person also said they didn’t have any change. Only this time they offered to get some out of the office safe… but it would take some time and he would bring it out to her at the pool. It took more than 20 minutes but he did bring ten 100 Kenyan Schilling notes out to us at the pool… *CLICK*… almost a BAM! but the gun didn’t quite go off this time.

Grounds: the huge African Millipedes are still everywhere. They’re still very creepy… alien-creepy. We’re starting to develop a theory about their origins. We’re seeing a relationship between them and all those Baobab trees on the grounds….

Full moon over Diani Beach.

Evening activity: guess what… its disco night again! This evening, we heard the DJ start his music before leaving the restaurant. The vast majority of this resort’s guests are in the 40+, if not 55+, age range – the DJ is playing African hip-hop and, surprise!… there’s not one person on the dance floor… BAM!

Full moon over pool area.

Posted in Africa 2012, Cigars, Food and Drink | Tagged , , , , , , | 1 Comment

July 2: Diani Beach, Kenya

Sunrise over Diani Beach from our balcony.

At breakfast: we were seated by the hostess who asked if we would like coffee. We both asked for coffee with milk (hot milk, the African way). We served ourselves at the buffet, ordered and had an omelet cooked, ate our food… the coffee arrived just as I had my last bite of croissant… BAM!

At the pool: the pool deck was still deserted… good for us as we again had our choice of loungers.

At the pool: the pool-guy (can’t think of him as a “pool-boy”) would still lean against the poolside bar all day long rather than earn tips… BAM!

Poolside bar – Coconut Willy’s: the bartender still just stands behind the bar all day long… BAM!

Lunch on pool deck: no luck with anyone offering menus on the deck today. Eron had to go find a waiter to ask for one… BAM!

Nice touch: on returning to our room, we found two fresh coconuts that Mohammed (the gardener) had picked for us.

Mohammed

Grounds: the huge African Millipedes are still everywhere. They’re still very creepy… alien-creepy. We’re starting to develop a theory about their origins.

Evening activity: checked the notice board by the pool yesterday and it stated the evening activity was, “Disco Night”. We didn’t hear or see any disco; figured it didn’t happen because it was Sunday. Today, the board still says it will be, “Disco Night”. When we left the restaurant after dinner, we saw one of the animation crew setting up his speakers by the pool… luckily, we couldn’t hear disco night from our room.

Having a cigar while watching the waves.

Posted in Africa 2012, Cigars, Food and Drink | Tagged , , , , , , | 1 Comment

July 1: Diani Beach, Kenya

Early morning view from room.

This was our first day of “planned chill-time” and we took complete advantage of it. We both still awoke before dawn but today we just rolled over and went back to sleep. Later, we explored our resort and mostly just relaxed by the pool. All-in-all, a very sedate Canada Day.

As we were chillin’ out we started to make some observations about the resort and the characters that populate it. After many Caribbean vacations and five weeks in Africa, you would think the quirks of “Island Time” (or whatever it’s called in specific locations) would have been old hat to us. However, this resort and its denizens have a particularly skewed take on it.

Before we get into the details, let’s first go back to the African version of Island Time: This Is Africa or “TIA”. In the past weeks, everywhere we went inefficiencies, shortages, lapses in judgement, and simple requests for service in general have been met with an apologetic, “TIA”. While this was cute in the beginning, after weeks of it, the concept starts to wear a little thin. In fact, Roger began to say that “TIA gives you TIA’s”, in reference to Transient Ischemic Attacks (or “mini-strokes”). Now that we have been ensconced on the Indian Ocean, the staff at the resort has introduced a new (at least to us) coastal variant to TIA. “Pole pole”; Swahili for slowly, slowly. This is like TIA on Quaaludes… dude. Now, when we can’t get something it’s, “TIA… pole, pole.”

Okay, back to the resort. This place is much like being parachuted into episodes of the BBC series “Fawlty Towers” (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fawlty_Towers) but with the scripts being authored by Kafka. On the surface, this place is fabulous; spectacular location, beautiful beach, well-kept grounds, multiple restaurants, good staff-to-guest ratio, etc. However, when we looked closer, the resort really is a, “2.5 dressed up as a 4” (stars that is). While it looks beautiful, there are things that are not quite right in this place.

Most of the guest services staff, simply put, hasn’t a clue as to how to do their jobs effectively or efficiently. While there are notable exceptions, but they are few and far between. Most of these staff we interacted with could be best described as high-school work-experience students who were dropped off at a place of business, were given minimum instructions on their roles, and then told that they were now working there and the regular workers were not available. So, the guest services staff (including local management) mostly goes about the day stumbling from one situation to the next. A major problem is that these people are rewarded for their incompetence; all the hotel charges included an automatic 10% gratuity… whether you actually got any service or not.

Oddly enough, the behind-the-scenes personnel such as the gardeners and the maintenance people were somehow not afflicted by the same job-performance problems of their colleagues. These people kept the place running.

Before you think we are being too demanding or we’re entirely negative about the resort, we’re not. Despite what we’ve noted, we actually enjoyed our time in the resort and except for a couple of individuals, most of the guest services staff were simply poorly trained and supervised rather than “actively lazy”. In fact, we would always hope that they “had a bad day” the last time and would be able to pull it off this time. We’d see the staff trying to accommodate a request and we would literally cheer them on. But almost inevitably it would be, “BAM!” And that’s not, BAM!, the good way like with Emeril Lagasse’s expression. That’s the, BAM!, I just shot myself in the foot while cleaning my gun kinda way.

So, over the course of this and the next eight posts, we will try to give you snippets of what we liked about this resort and of what drove us bonkers…

At breakfast: we were seated by the hostess who asked if we would like coffee. We both asked for coffee with milk (hot milk, the African way). We served ourselves at the buffet, ate our food… still no coffee… BAM!

At the pool: the pool deck was deserted… good for us as we had our choice of loungers.

At the pool: we met the pool-boy (actually a guy in his mid-forties). He is one of those, “actively lazy”, people. He would get a mattress and towel for the guests (the bare minimum job) but that was it, you would not have any contact with him again unless you went to him. So, instead of pro-actively checking on his guests and possibly earning tips, he’d rather lean against the poolside bar all day long… BAM!

Poolside bar – Coconut Willy’s: the bartender stands behind the bar and talks to the pool-boy all day long. He could make periodic rounds of the guests at the pool, offer refreshments, earn income for the resort, and receive tips but he just stands behind the bar all day long… BAM!

Lunch on pool deck: even though the bartender and the pool-boy have no interest in checking on their guests, a waiter from the restaurant adjacent to the pool deck approaches us and asks if we would like lunch menus. When asked if we could have lunch on the pool deck, he responded, “Hakuna Matata” – no problem. He served us our meal and drinks on the pool deck… and received a tip for his initiative.

Grounds: on the way back to our room, we asked a gardener about the name of a particular flower in bloom on the grounds. He didn’t know but asked our room number and said he would try to find out and let us know. Mohammed (the gardener) knocked on our door a little while later. He didn’t know the name of the flower but had brought a freshly cut bouquet of Tuber Roses and a vase for our room… and received a tip for his initiative.

Grounds: found that the grounds harbour a huge number of African Millipedes. These things are about 12.5 cm (5 in) long, are shiny black, have orange antennae, move on over two hundred pairs of orange feet, and are just plain creepy. Not exactly a, BAM! It’s just that they’re so creepy… like, alien-creepy.

Big “alien” Millipede.

Posted in Africa 2012, Food and Drink | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

June 30: Tsavo East to Diani Beach, Kenya

Pre-dawn over “our” watering hole.

Dawn visitors to “our” watering hole.

Similar to most facilities in the national parks, our lodge was surrounded by an electrified game fence. And by electrified, we don’t mean tickle-your-cow-electrified; theses fences have current strong enough to discourage adult Elephants! In the included image, you will see what looks to be a standard cattle-guard built into the ground –  that’s electrified as well. What you don’t see is the gate over the ele-guard; it is high enough for large delivery trucks to pass under but has long wires trailing down from the cross-piece to about SUV roof-height… yep, these are electrified too. The guides told us we were completely safe if we drove through in a grounded vehicle… just in case, we kept all toes, fingers, and assorted limbs INSIDE the truck whenever we drove through one of these gates.

Electric game fence and ele gate at lodge.

We had our last planned game drive this morning and saw a couple of Cheetah and other residents of Tsavo East.

Ele having breakfast.

Southern Ground Hornbill.

However, the high-point was watching a solo Lioness stalk a small group of gazelles. While she didn’t have her toe-shoes and tutu on, she was definitely on tippy-toes as she slunk across the open savannah. She dipped down into a dry river bed, using it to get closer to her prey. We watched her emerge ever so slowly from the gully, a millimetre at a time, using fallen trees and small bushes for cover.

We wanted to stay and watch the stalk to its conclusion but it might have gone on for hours. Unfortunately, the Kenyan Wildlife Service (KWS) was also on scene and checking everyone’s park entry time-stamps. The visitor-entry fee is only valid for 24 hours, after that, a substantial fine is incurred. We had entered the park yesterday morning and were rapidly running out of time. Patrick started the truck with only seven minutes to go. We had to travel 12 kilometres (a little over 7 miles) over a rough dirt road to make it  to the Voi Gate. We held onto our cameras with one hand and clung desperately to the truck’s OMG handles with the other as we luged and bounced our way to the gate. We made it with two minutes to spare.

A short distance outside the Voi Gate, we stopped for lunch at the Lion Hill Lodge (http://www.lionhilllodge.com/). The view from the top made up for treacherous road up the hill. At one time, Lions used to be frequently seen on the hill, using the height to scout for prey in the valleys below.

View from Lion Hill.

Duh!

Patrick – our driver/guide from JT Safaris.

The Great Mombassa Safari: ah, Mombassa… reminds us very much of Dar es Salaam… same, same but different. We drove headlong into the same brick wall of traffic that seems to signal the outskirts of just about every sizeable settlement in Africa. Fortunately, we had an expert urban-safari driver at the wheel and, bear in mind, they drive on the left side of the road over here. First, he crossed he drainage culvert that serves as the centre line, traversed the on-coming lanes, and proceeded against the flow on the opposing shoulder. Then he wove his way back across four lanes of traffic, ending up on “our” shoulder. He then battled his way around and past others doing the same and plodded through deep ruts and puddles of muddy water alongside the road for almost 7 kilometres (about 4 miles) before he could work his way past the gridlock. Roger commented that he has driven like that before, but never without lights and siren. If it hadn’t been for our driver, we would have been stuck in that traffic for hours (or days?).

Safety-first! Notice the driver has a full-face helmet and a reflective vest.

Mombassa’s landmark Ele tusks.

Our cross-harbour ferry towards Diani Beach.

Our room at the Jacaranda Indian Ocean Beach Resort (http://www.jacarandahotels.com/index.php/indian-ocean-beach-resort.html) was our reward for completing phase three of the trip: our private safaris. It is quaintly Swahili with a second story balcony offering a stunning view of the Indian Ocean and its spectacular sunrises.

View of Indian Ocean from reception.

First cigar on Diani Beach.

Our first dusk at Diani Beach.

Dusk view of ocean from our balcony.

Ahhhhh… ensuite shower and tub, air conditioning, AND a ceiling fan. The small pleasures in life….

Posted in Africa 2012, Cigars | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

June 29: Pachyderm Encounters of the Closest Kind – Tsavo East Nat’l Park

Tsavo West National Park to Tsavo East National Park, Kenya.

We drove from Tsavo West National Park to Tsavo East National Park(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tsavo_East_National_Park) this morning. The four hour drive took us from the dramatic cinder cone vistas of extinct volcanos, including Kilimanjaro, to the more familiar savanna and woodlands of East Africa. The climate was noticeably hotter and drier.

During the journey, we came upon the Tsavo River and the railway bridge made famous by the two man-eating Lions, the “Ghost” and the “Darkness”. The maneless male Lions killed and ate upwards of three dozen people during the building of the Mombassa-Uganda railway. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tsavo_maneaters

Tsavo River railway bridge.

Almost the entire drive was on the ubiquitous red dirt roads that criss-cross the parks (and most of the rest of Africa). However, these roads are well maintained compared to some of our other experiences and didn’t shake the fillings out of our teeth.

Almost as soon as we crossed into Tsavo East we began to see multiple herds of elephants and zebras as well a few critters we hadn’t seen before.

Comfy chin-rest.

Ele through trees.

Giraffe Antelope. Check out the ridiculously long neck.

Little Zebra.

Secretary Bird. Believe it or not, this fancy guy’s a vicious predator.

Termite condo-complex.

A small raptor with his lizard-lunch.

Zebra-buddies.

Now, those readers who don’t like Elephants might as well skip the rest of this post because the rest of the day was all-ele. We drove to a concrete cistern where a herd of about 20 elephants were drinking. The herd included three or four calves that were only days old. Patrick rolled the truck to within 15 feet of the elephants and killed the engine. A few of the older females took notice of us, but didn’t make any aggressive moves in spite of the young calves. They lifted their heads and flapped their ears, but didn’t come any closer to the truck or start charging. Eventually, the elephants had enough water, and one by one began to file around the truck, heading up the road from which we had come. We had elephants behind us, beside us, and in front of us. We felt as if we were part of the herd.

Crowded around the cistern.

Mom and little one.

Nice cool drink.

Little guy waiting his turn.

Some of herd leaving cistern.

Little but with attitude.

Herd coming right at us.

Eles were even closer than this one.

Last to leave.

Full and happy.

Herd moving away from cistern.

Hard to keep up with them little legs.

Catching up to the herd.

After they had moved up the road, Patrick turned the truck around and we followed the herd. We came up behind them and Patrick gently gunned the engine to try and get them off the road. One of the elephants, an Old Auntie, took offence to our proximity this time and turned around. She was clearly irritated. She flapped her ears, stomped her feet, and started to walk towards us. We stood our ground without making any noise, and the old auntie rejoined the herd. We slipped past the herd and drove up the road.

After only a few hundred meters we came upon a watering hole right next to the road with a smaller herd of elephants. We stopped to take some photographs and watch them splashing in the mud.

Three sizes.

Baby’s found the mud.

Not so sure about this.

Eventually, the first herd of elephants also arrived at the watering hole. The family groups don’t mix, so the smaller herd moved off when the others arrived. Old Auntie got her nose all out of joint again. This time she was a little more demonstrative in her displeasure, so we backed away a little, and she calmed down. The herd moved around to the far side of the watering hole, giving us great photo ops with full frontal shots. We must have clicked off 2,000 exposures as we watched the elephants cavorting around the water. The newborns were slipping and falling in the muck, the older ones sprayed themselves with thick mud. Every once in a while one of the family would snort and trumpet. We hung out with the herd for more than an hour.

First herd arrives at watering hole.

Half-hearted charge.

A walk in the mud.

Mud can be tough on the little ones.

Uh-oh, sliding….

A touch more over here….

Doncha hate it when you can’t get the sneeze out?

Muddy baby.

A pointer-ele?!?!

Gots a dribble-trunk.

Hey, get your own water.

Nice cool mud.

Group butt-scratch.

A family portrait.

Hello.

This is gonna feel so good!

I want some too.

Splashy, splashy.

Aaaaah, that’s so good!

The spray-on mud-tan.

Got me some Mickey-ears.

That tickles!

Water good, mud even better.

Yum, water.

Junior needs a cuddle.

We did the usual game drive in the late afternoon. We returned to our room at the Ashnil Aruba Lodge (http://www.ashnilhotels.com/aruba/) in the early dusk, and imagine our delight when we opened the door to our room, and saw two bachelor elephants at the watering hole 75 feet from our verandah. We enjoyed their company while they drank their fill of water. Eventually they turned in the fading light and wandered off into the savanna night.

Eles welcoming us home.

Posted in Africa 2012 | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

June 28: Amboseli to Tsavo West National Park, Kenya

Amboseli National Park to Tsavo West National Park, Kenya.

We noticed a subtle difference in our passenger load this morning as a smartly dressed young man climbed into the front passenger seat carrying his briefcase, walkie-talkie,… and an AK-47 Assault Rifle. Patrick introduced us to Samwell, our askari (an armed guard or escort) for the trip between the parks. They didn’t mention this in the brochures, but apparently we were going to be driving through “bandit country” to get to Tsavo West National Park (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tsavo_West_National_Park). Patrick told us that all the safari companies have made arrangements with the Kenyan Army to provide detached-duty soldiers as armed escorts. In addition, the safari groups were required to travel in convoys of at least two vehicles. Unfortunately, our trip was uneventful. Being attacked by bandits in backwoods Kenya would have been another check mark on the ol’ bucket list.

Our Askari saying goodbye to Patrick at Tsavo West gate.

As we left Amboseli and headed to Tsavo West, the landscape went through a dramatic transformation in just a couple of hours: from savanna and woodlands to the hilly cinder cones of extinct volcanoes. Roger felt the highlight of the drive between the parks was a huge lava field that was the result of multiple eruptions a hundred years ago; the Shetani Lava Flow. The resemblance to the Big Island of Hawaii is uncanny.

Shetani Lava Flow.

Road through Shetani Lava Flow.

“Shattered” lava.

Eron, on the other hand, thought the highlight of the drive was seeing Kili’s peak again. Roger said with a smile, “been there, done that, got the t-shirt, even sent postcards”… Brett?

Kili from road to Tsavo West.

Shortly after entering the park, we saw a few Grant’s Gazelles, and asked if they are the smallest antelope. Patrick told that they are the second smallest, with Dik Diks being the smaller at about 7 kilograms (about 15 pounds).  As if on cue, within a few seconds, we saw our first Dik Dik peeking out at us from the bush. They travel in mated pairs, and are like a Disney drawing come to life – incredibly tiny, huge dark eyes, graceful, and fairy-like. They are also shy and bound away very quickly, making it difficult to get a good photograph.

Dik Dik

Dik Dik – tiny 7 kg antelope.

The best part of the Serena Kilaguni Lodge (http://www.serenahotels.com/serenakilaguni/default-en.html) was walking through the reception area and seeing a breathtaking vista unfold before us. The bar and dining room are open air, with an unimpeded view of the valley below, the watering holes, and mountains in the distance.

View from dining room.

Watering hole and landscape beyond.

Lined up at watering hole. Photo taken from our room’s patio.

Before we left on our afternoon game drive, we drove over to the Kenyan Wildlife Service (KWS) compound to pick up our guide, Salome. She is a Ranger with the KWS and had been contracted to be with us at Mzima Springs (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mzima_Springs). Our visit to the springs would involve an approximately 1 kilometre walk through the wilderness and she would serve as our guide and protection from animals; she was armed with an ancient but very serviceable “Jungle Variant” Lee Enfield bolt-action rifle. Mzima Springs is a vitally important source of potable water as well as providing a drought-free localized ecosystem. In fact, the springs’ flow-rate is high enough that they supply drinking water for the city of Mombassa on the Kenyan coast.

Walking to Mzima Springs with KWS Ranger.

Mzima Springs. Note the “friendly reminder” sign.

Small lake at Mzima Springs. The small “hut” near the centre of the image is the “Tank”.

Our walk to the springs was uneventful. We were able to sample the spring water right from its source, although we had to keep an eye out for Crocodiles. Downstream from the springs, there is a small lake. The water is remarkably clear so, the KWS took advantage of this and installed “The  Tank”. The Tank is basically a large metal cylinder with a sealed bottom placed into the lake vertically. There are stairs leading down from a doorway above the water level and the area at and slightly below water level is equipped with a series of viewing windows. Visitors are encouraged to watch the fish and, if they’re lucky, see a crocodile or hippo swim by.

Eron looking through window in the Tank.

We only saw fish… no Crocs or Hippos.

Warning for visitors to the Tank.

Croc positioned to trap fish coming downstream.

Close up of croc. Note all those clean white teeth….

After our walk, we continued with the afternoon game drive which included going up to an observation post at the top of a cinder cone called, “Poachers Lookout”. Due to its panoramic view, this peak is routinely used by the KWS to observe the movements of poachers in the valleys below.

Panorama from Poachers Lookout.

Cinder cone landscape.

Colourful – whatever he is.

Cape Buffalo and calf.

Young eles play-fighting.

Their play can get very rough.

Sunset over Tsavo West.

Dusk over hotel’s water holes. Photo taken from our room’s patio.

During and after dinner, we were entertained by a stream of different animals coming to the watering holes. The animals included Eland, Bushbuck, Giraffe, Gazelle, and Cape Buffalo.

Cape Buffalo drinking at night.

Just before climbing into bed, Roger decided to go out onto our balcony to check on the watering holes. At first, he didn’t see animals at the either of them. However, after a few moments, he noticed some movement at the base of one of the light poles. He got his camera and with the lens zoomed to its maximum 750 mm, was able to finally make out the source of the movement; as correctly identified by Steve, a White-Tailed Mongoose.

White-Tailed Mongoose.

Posted in Africa 2012 | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

June 27: Amboseli Day 2

Kili sunrise from the compound’s gate.

Sunrise on Kilimanjaro.

Close-up of Kilimanjaro sunrise.

We started the morning with a game drive. As we were leaving the lodge compound, we were treated to a spectacular view of Kilimanjaro in the early morning light. Of course we stopped to take photos. (We’ll send you some, Brett).

There are only 5 cameras. I have to keep telling everyone I’m not a Japanese tourist!

Sun rising over safari truck.

Amboseli sunrise.

During the drive, we saw a couple of lionesses and Patrick stopped the truck. One of them appeared to be disconcerted. She was pacing and mewling while watching a spot in the nearby bush. It was obvious she had cubs of nursing age, which we suspect were hidden in the bush. The other lioness had flap of skin that was bleeding on her left hind leg.

The most probable sources of her distress became apparent when a research vehicle drove the of the bushes and we saw a small group of Spotted Hyaena in the area. When the vehicle was gone and the Hyaena had left, the two lionesses made their way back into the bushes.

Mewling Lioness.

Mewling Lioness.

Older Lioness with wounded leg.

Both Lionesses.

Spotted Hyaena.

Hyaena with leg in mouth. May have been from Lions’ kill.

We decided the show was over – no more toe-shoes and tutus.  So it was time to move on. However, as luck would have it, the truck engine wouldn’t turn over. Patrick jumped out to check under the hood while we stood on lookout with nothing but good intentions and fully loaded cameras. Patrick quickly hammered the battery contacts back into place. He climbed back into the truck and slammed the door… just as we turned and saw one of the lionesses emerge from the bushes and cross the road mere feet behind the truck. JT Safaris was almost short one driver and a truck because, without Patrick, we would still be driving around Amboseli looking for the lodge.

Dad, mom, and little Impala.

Impala: only hours after being born.

Black-faced Vervet Monkey.

Young Thompson’s Gazelle.

Sunburst over an ele.

We went on another game drive once the heat of the day started to dissipate in the afternoon.

Grey-Crowned Cranes.

Roger “shooting” animals.

Hours old ele with mom.

Ele standing firm.

Old, stained tusks.

Ele with huge tusks.

Ele at dusk.

Eron retired to our room after dinner. So Roger went to the lounge patio for a cup of coffee and an after-dinner cigar. Jimmy had given him two cigars last night: Roger tried the Padilla Artemis Torpedo. It was medium-plus bodied stick with billows of smoke, full of cedary notes, and with a rich coffee-like finish. Roger was relaxing, listening to the music from the lounge, and was half way through the cigar when he looked up to see an adult elephant standing on the other side of the electrified game fence, awash in the glow of the floodlights. The elephant stared at Roger for several minutes, then walked along the fence, scratched itself against a tree, and meandered off into the darkness. Having an elephant bid you goodnight after a day of great safaris…. check that one off the bucket list.

Good night from an ele.

Posted in Africa 2012 | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

June 26: Nairobi to Amboseli National Park

Off before dawn – AGAIN!

We were torn from the warm embrace of our comfy bed at 5:00 AM – AGAIN! Patrick, our guide and driver from JT Safaris (http://www.tripadvisor.ca/ShowUserReviews-g317068-d318009-r22534296-Julius_Safaris_Day_Trips-Ukunda_Coast_Province.html), picked us up at the hotel well before dawn. When everything else is on African-time here, how come morning departures aren’t?

The drive to Amboseli National Park (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amboseli_National_Park) was uneventful and took only four hours. Blissfully short by our now skewed standards – didn’t even get numb-bum.

Amboseli National Park, Kenya.

Because we arrived early in the day, Patrick took us on a late morning game drive before heading into the lodge. We are still waiting for toe-shoes and tutus before getting excited. The day was starting to heat up, and the animals were disappearing into any shady spot they could find, so we headed for the lodge.

Inner gate into Amboseli Serena Lodge.

Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge

The Amboseli Serena Lodge (http://www.serenahotels.com/serenaamboseli/default-en.html) is located within the national park. It is a lush, green oasis of civility in the dusty African savanna. On arrival, we were greeted in the parking lot with cool damp cloths and a glass of orange juice. This definitely ain’t overlanding.

Our room is luxury hotel meets African game lodge. The walls are painted with murals of wildlife and tribal themes, the decor utilizes Maasai beading, carvings, and spears. Dark African woods are used for the desk and beside tables. The bed is elegant with down pillows and a real duvet. The whole bed is surrounded by a track-mounted mosquito net. The room is completed by a small patio with chairs and table, and has a view of the exquisite gardens. The only downside is that you must remember to close the screen door because the resident vervet monkeys will raid the room given any opportunity.

Our room.

View of patio and garden from room.

View from our assigned table in the semi-private dining room.

View from lounge.

After lunch and a siesta, Patrick took us on a late afternoon game drive. Just before sunset, we spotted Kilimanjaro’s peaks, and stopped to shoot photographs. That is twice we have been able to see Kili… How ’bout that, Brett?

Kili in the late afternoon.

Kili at dusk.

There are about 800 elephants living in the park; we saw most of them today. We ran across a herd of elephants crossing the road with several very young calves and one very large, very old bull who is missing a tusk – hence our nickname for him: One-Tusk.  Patrick estimated that he is close to 70 years old and nearing the natural end of his life. Elephants go through three full sets of teeth during their lives. When the last set falls out, the elephant can no longer eat and wanders away to die. Patrick explained that losing a tusk is an outward sign of extreme old age.

Amboseli Elephants.

Nice mud-masque.

Don’t worry, the little guy’s just asleep. When they’re tired, they just lay down and sleep.

Now, he’s awake.

Hanging onto mommy.

Kinda wrinkly, for a little guy.

Little guy running.

Snack-time.

Just like mom.

One-Tusk B&W.

We also saw the usual assortment of savannah animals, as well as our first cheetah and her two cubs. Unfortunately, the cheetah wasn’t very cooperative. She was lounging in tall grass at quite a distance from the truck, making it difficult to get good photos. We watched them for almost an hour and they barely moved.

Cheetah and cubs.

Grey-Crowned Cranes and female Ostriches.

Gnus (Wildebeest).

Grazing Zebra.

Male Ostrich.

Spotted Hyaena.

Zebra dust-bath.

Upset about something.

Zebra foal.

We were returning to the lodge in the fading late when we came upon One-Tusk standing at the edge of the road. Patrick was able to stop the truck mere feet away from him. Roger and I started snapping off photos furiously while Patrick had the truck in gear and his foot on the accelerator ready to flee. One-Tusk kept an eye on us while munching grass. Suddenly, and without any warning, he charged just as Patrick popped the clutch and got us out of the way. One-Tusk is older than dirt, most likely blind, and definitely incontinent of urine… all of which is completely irrelevant when 5 1/2 tons is charging at you from six feet away. Another one for the bucket list – being charged at close range by a bull elephant.

Please excuse the blurry photograph. It is difficult to hold the camera and focus when you are peeing your pants….

One-Tusk before charge.

Holy Crap!!!!

So long, One-Tusk.

Safari vehicle are required to return to the lodges before 6:30 PM or risk being fined by the Kenyan Wildlife Service (Park Rangers). So, as the sun sets, you will find everyone racing for home.

Safari vehicles racing for home.

The lounge’s outdoor patio looks out over the marsh land, and is illuminated by flood lights, allowing guests to view animals wandering nearby.

Area in front of patio lit with flood lamps.

Eron typing blog entries on patio.

Later in the evening Roger went to the outdoor patio to enjoy his after-dinner cigar. A fellow cigar enthusiast from New York, Jimmy, joined Roger and they spent an hour smoking and swapping lies about their African adventures. You can always find a friend in a fellow cigar aficionado.

Posted in Africa 2012, Cigars | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments